How To: Dress as an Anglo-Saxon or Viking

Overheard in a classroom during a discussion on the preponderance of leopard print costumes being worn for a Stone Age history day a comment was made that the same outfit would do for an Anglo-Saxon day. Clearly the speaker had no idea of the clothing worn in early Mediæval Europe, but then why would they? How many of us really need to know what an Anglo-Saxon man or a Viking woman would have sported a thousand years ago. Perhaps those teaching children ought to know something so Tastes Of History hopes to help.

This “How to:” guide is therefore meant for those wishing to recreate simple yet effective historically-themed costume. It is primarily aimed at teachers wishing to inspire their pupils on “Wow Days” when dressing up is the order of the day. Previously Tastes Of History has tackled “How to: Make Simple Egyptian, Greek or Roman Costume”, so this time we going to address the Anglo-Saxons and Vikings [1] of the 8th- to the 11th-century. Let us start at the feet and finish with what to wear on the head.

Footwear  From practical experience obtaining well-fitting footwear is essential for comfort. Remember you may be on your feet all day so although it is tempting to buy some shiny armour or a new sword, we would strongly advise spending money on good quality boots or shoes first. Early Mediæval footwear seems to some form of ankle boot, known as a “turn shoe”, enclosing the foot and fastened with either leather laces or one or two toggles. Men and women wore ankle boots, Historical examples of which have been recovered from Viking-era Jorvik (York). Those pictured are very similar to those worn by the author and, to name but two online retailers, may be purchased from the likes Get Dressed for Battle or Merchant of Menace [2]. Retailing for ca. £70-75 (at time of writing) a pair these boots may not be a viable purchase for, say, teachers. So, to achieve the “look”, any form of brown leather ankle boot will suffice as they can be disguised by leg wraps.

Leg wraps  Bandage-like leg bindings worn by Anglo-Saxon and Viking men resemble the puttees worn by late 19th- and early 20th-century soldiers. Known in Old English as “winingas” (the plural of “wining”) the word is related to the act of “winding”. The equivalent term in Old Norse is “vindingr”. These woollen leg wraps are typically 2.5 m long (8 ft) and ca. 5 cm (2 in) wide and by far the most illustrated method of wearing them reveals they were wound from the ankle around the leg and fastened just below the knee. The loose end appears to be tucked in, or they were secured either by hooks or by tapes for tying. The exact method is not known. Winingas/vindingr are not only a good way of keeping the lower extremities warm but also protect the trouser legs from wear and from rough undergrowth, preventing tears from brambles, etc. They also provide support to the muscles of the leg, which may have been the primary reason for their use, but it would also make sense to use leg bindings as cold weather clothing. Wrapped over the top of the shoe or boot, winingas/vindingr are effective at keeping mud, stones and snow out and keeping one's feet and legs drier in wintery conditions. As stated above, woollen material wrapped around the lower leg can also be used to disguise modern ankle boots.

Trousers  The Romans noted that ankle-length trousers (Latin: bracae) were worn by tribesmen in NW Europe (Germans, Gauls, Britons, etc.) and by those further East such as the Persians or their successors, the Parthians. No complete pair of Viking trousers, known as “brækr” in Old Norse, has ever been found. The earlier (1st- to 5th-century) leggings found at Thorsbjerg Mose in the 19th-century have been used by museums and re-enactors as a pattern for Viking-age trousers, not least due to the paucity of other evidence. Of very strong construction, these should be generally straight legged and reasonably close fitting, not unlike modern jeans. For those on a budget, woollen leggings would be an acceptable compromise to achieve the “look”.

Shirt  The shirts worn by Anglo-Saxons and Vikings were largely identical differing only in the way the name was pronounced. In Old English scyrte was pronounced “shirta” while the Old Norse word skyrta was pronounced “skirta”. Both words originate from Proto-Germanic *skurtjon meaning “a short garment”. Shirts can be of wool or linen, quite voluminous and typically long-sleeved. In terms of length, it seems that shirts typically reached to the mid-thigh or were knee-length. Tablet woven decoration or embroidery often adorned the neckline, sleeve cuffs and hemline but this is not essential in any recreation.

Dresses  Anglo-Saxon and Viking women wore ankle length linen under-dresses known also as skyrta in Old Norse. This could be long-sleeved, short-sleeved or sleeveless; a woman’s arms were considered a point of attraction, and young women probably preferred to show them off when appropriate. In cold or wet weather, a similarly styled woollen dress would have been worn over the skyrta, but in winter, a doubled outer tunic or coat could be worn over her other garments.

To protect her skyrta, an “apron-skirt” or hangerock (proun. “han-ye-rok”) was typically worn over it. A hangerock is another type of dress, wider at the bottom than at the top and held up by straps passing over the shoulders from the back to the front. The straps were fastened by brœkr (“brooches”), with oval-style “tortoise” brooches appearing to have been very popular. Depending on the woman’s status or wealth, these might by silver or gold. Finds have revealed a high degree of craftsmanship in the decorative designs. Such brooches are often connected by chains of glass beads and amber pendants; the latter thought to have magical properties.

Belts  Leather belts are worn by both men and women round the waist to suspend useful items like knives, keys or a pouch to hold small valuables. Women may have also elected to wear decorative tablet woven belts instead of leather ones.

Headwear  Married women tied their hair up in a knot and covered it with a headscarf. Unmarried girls wore their hair loose or simply confined by a piece of braid. Simple skullcaps made of wool or leather were worn by both sexes. Caps could be edged with tablet-woven braid or trimmed with fur. Both men and women also wore caped hoods covering the neck and giving excellent protection from inclement weather. A lining of looser-woven cloth was not uncommon, and some hoods even had a filling of down between the two layers. The basic design survived all over Europe for many centuries. 

Material to use  For accurate ancient or Mediæval costume, cloth should be made only from the natural fibres of linen or wool. It is recognised, however, that sometimes modern cloth contains a mixture of these and cotton. This is acceptable compromise for those seeking to be as accurate as possible since the mix of fibres will not adversely affect the appearance or the draping qualities of the base material. In the early Mediæval period wool was the dominate fabric worn by most people so ideally that should be the first choice for any Anglo-Saxon or Viking costume.

Colours  It may come as a shock, but television dramas and movies are not the best source of inspiration for what colours to wear. Even today, costume and wardrobe departments seemingly cannot divorce themselves from the very outdated idea that ancient and Mediæval clothing was almost exclusively dull browns and subdued colours. This is despite overwhelming evidence from contemporary paintings, embroideries and tapestries all showing a wealth of vibrant colour. Admittedly, modern chemical dyes produce consistent and vivid hues which probably could not have been achieved so perfectly in the past when using plant-based dyes. Yet, from just the small selection of plants as shown right, a variety of colours and shades clearly can be achieved.

And finally  If tempted to add to your ensemble, then be aware that no cow-horns ever graced a Viking helmet before the last quarter of the 19th-century. There is simply no evidence whatsoever, historically or archaeologically - the end. Should you, dear reader, remain unconvinced, then follow the link to Roberta Frank’s article on “The Invention of the Viking Horned Helmet”. Bon appétit!

Endnotes:

1. In the Old Norse tongue, the word viking meant something like raiding or piracy, and vikingr meant a raider. Today, however, this word is used as a general term for the Nordic peoples of the 8th- to the 11th-centuries, it was used more rarely in the mediaeval period. Their fellow Europeans used to speak rather of “Norsemen” - men from the North (a term which lives on in “Norman”, since Normandy was founded by Scandinavian colonists). The peoples of eastern Europe and the Balkans, however, used the terms “Rus” and “Varangians” for the Norse invaders, traders, colonists and mercenaries.

2. Tastes Of History is neither affiliated with either company named nor endorsing their products. We are merely pointing interested parties to two possible sources of clothing and footwear. Other retailers and suppliers are available.

About History: Berserkers

Background

The Viking Age [1], as it is popularly called, is commonly said, in Britain at least, to have begun with the raid on the Holy Island of Lindisfarne on 8th June 793 and ended with the unsuccessful invasion of northern England in September 1066. For roughly three centuries European history was transformed as Norse seafarers, warriors, and merchants left their mark on the mediæval world.

Originating from the Scandinavian regions of present-day Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, the Vikings [2] were masterful shipbuilders and navigators. The shallow draft and versatile design of their longships enabled them to traverse both open seas and rivers, allowing them to penetrate deep into continental Europe, reaching as far as the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and North America. Popular culture tends to focus on their reputation as fearsome raiders, but the Norse (or Rus) were also skilled traders, craftsmen, and settlers. They established trading networks that stretched from the Arctic to Constantinople, dealing in goods such as furs, slaves, ivory, and precious metals. Their settlements grew into significant urban centres, with cities like Dublin, York, and Kyiv owing their development to Scandinavian influence. In many regions, including Britain, Danes, Norwegians and Swedes integrated with local populations, adopting and adapting to local customs while maintaining elements of their Norse culture.

Going berserk!

While this all sounds peaceful and almost idyllic, it was a violent period and the Viking’s formidable reputation as warriors had good reason. Into this arena step the berserkers (Old Norse: berserker, sing. berserkr) of Norse history and mythology. These enigmatic warriors were renowned for fighting in an uncontrollable, trance-like fury known as berserkergang (“berserker rage”). Characterized by superhuman strength, apparent immunity to pain and fire, and a complete dissociation from normal behaviour, berserkers inspired terror in their enemies. Warriors in this state were said to bite their shields, howl like wild animals, and attack friend and foe alike with unstoppable ferocity. Some scholars propose that certain examples of berserker rage had been induced voluntarily by the consumption of drugs, such as hallucinogenic mushrooms, or massive amounts of alcohol. The evidence is scant, and the hypothesis is much debated. Yet, the discovery of seeds belonging to black henbane (Hyoscyamus niger) in a Viking grave near Fyrkat, Denmark in 1977 lends some support to the theory. The intoxication caused by Hyoscyamus niger is similar to the symptoms ascribed to berserkergang suggesting it could have been used to induce their warlike state. Alternatively, epilepsy or mental illness have also been offered as explanations, as has the hypothesis that the physical manifestations of berserker rage was a form of self-induced hysteria.

This may not so far-fetched as warriors have screamed (“howled”?) or yelled at their enemy or crashed weapons against shields to intimidate their opponents while excising their own fear before battle. Consider for example the Māori Haka which, among other ceremonial functions, is popularly associated with intimidating adversaries in preparation for battle [3]. Much like the berserkergang, the “ríastrad” was the battle frenzy that transformed the Irish hero Cú Chulainn into a fearsome warrior. Sometimes translated as “warp spasm”, it contorted Cú Chulainn’s body with rage turning him into an unstoppable force that would kill friend or foe alike.

What’s in a name?

Archaeological evidence and historical accounts, including the sagas and skaldic poetry, describe berserkers fighting without armour. This has led some to translate berserkr as “bare of shirt”, where “shirt” refers to the mail-shirt, or byrnie, popularly worn at the time. However, the name berserkr likely derives from the informal Old Norse word bera (“bear”) and serkr (“shirt”), which has been interpreted as they wore bear or wolf pelts into battle. The association with animal hides connects to a wider belief that berserkers could take on the characteristics of wild animals, particularly bears and wolves, during their frenzied states. Indeed, the Vatnsdæla saga, the Haraldskvæði and the Grettis saga all refer to warriors wearing the skins of wolves called ulfheðnar (“wolf-skin-ers” or possibly “wolf-heathens”; singular ulfheðinn). They are consistently mentioned as a group of berserkers and always presented as the elite following of the first Norwegian king Harald Fairhair. They were said to wear the pelt of a wolf over their chainmail when they entered battle and thus were not “bare of shirt”. Unlike berserker, however, direct references to ulfheðnar are scant.

Berserkers, on the other hand, served important roles in Norse society beyond their battlefield prowess. They often acted as elite guard units for kings and chieftains, with historical accounts mentioning them serving in the personal retinues of various Scandinavian rulers. Their presence was seen as both a military asset and a status symbol, although their unpredictable nature perhaps made them dangerous allies even to their own leaders. Yet, the cultural significance of berserkers extended beyond their military function. In Norse mythology, they were sometimes associated with the cult of Odin, the god of war and death. This connection makes sense given Odin's aspects as a god of battle frenzy and ecstatic states.

Bon appétit!

Reference:

Hansley, C.K., (2019), “The First Reported Contact Between Britain and Vikings”, The Historian’s Hut, available online (accessed 27th May 2025).

Endnotes:

1. The anonymous author of the early sections of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle was the first known source to write about a Viking raid in Britain. In the entry for the Anglo-Saxon year AD 787 (often equated by modern historians to year AD 789), it was reported that three ships of “Northmen” arrived near the Kingdom of Wessex from the so-called “Hæretha Lands,” or the land of robbers. Four years later, in AD 793, Vikings raided the monastery of Lindisfarne in Northumbria, looting the sanctuary and killing some of the monks. This act horrified not only Anglo-Saxon England but European Christendom but presaged many future raids.

2. The term “Viking” is popularly used to denote the people of Denmark, Norway and Sweden during the 8th- to 11th-centuries. To call all these people “Vikings”, however, is a mistake as the name does not really describe the distinct tribes, groups or communities of the Early Mediæval Period. Click here to discover more.

3. Haka have been traditionally performed by both men and women for a variety of social functions within Māori culture. While the war dance (peruperu) holds sway in the popular imagination, haka are also performed to welcome distinguished guests (haka pōwhiri), to acknowledge great achievements, as a way of giving advice or instructions (waiata tohutohu), restoring self-respect (pātere), transmitting social and political messages (haka taparahi, ngeri), or as a fare-well or mourning of the deceased (waiata tangi).

Norse America

In our post ‘Dispelling Some Myths: Romans in the Americas’ we attempted to disprove a ‘theory’ that the ancient Romans had contact with South America which stems from the misidentification of a ‘pineapple’ in an early 1st-century AD Roman mosaic. Put simply, the Romans had no idea that the Americas existed and nor did they have the seafaring technology to safely navigate the Atlantic Ocean. We concluded that any suggestion of links between pineapples, Romans and the Americas is simply wishful thinking. But who were the first Europeans to reach the Americas?

Viking explorers  From raiders to traders to explorers, the people popularly called the Vikings [1] did not stop at settling in Britain. Exploring westwards, the Norwegians established settlements in the Orkneys, mainland Scotland, and the Western Isles. Between AD 800 and AD 1300, for example, they established one of their first settlements at Jarlshof in the Shetland Islands. Some sailed even further West to Iceland, which was an uninhabited island at the beginning of the Viking age. We even have a good idea when they arrived as scientists have dated a layer of volcanic sediment on the island to AD 872. Below this layer there is no evidence of human activity so it stands to reason that the first settlers must have arrived sometime in the late 9th-century after AD 872. But here’s an odd thought. Iceland would not exist as a nation today if its settlers had not included women, some of whom were born in the British Isles rather than in Scandinavia. 

Aud the Deep-Minded  While most of the settlers recorded in the Mediæval Landnámabók (Book of Settlements) are men, thirteen women are named as having made the journey in an open ship to claim land in Iceland. The most famous of these is Aud the Deep-Minded, who is celebrated in the Laxdæla saga for her achievements in moving her whole household from Scotland to Iceland, via Orkney and the Faroes.

Move over Christopher Columbus  Perhaps encouraged by the more adventurous longship captains, and the prospect on enriching themselves, some Vikings sailed even further West to an even colder, icier place which, in a truly inspired marketing ploy, they called ‘Greenland’. Regardless, the settlement in Greenland provided a springboard to further exploration westward. Beginning in the late 10th-century AD Norsemen explored and settled areas of the North Atlantic including the north-eastern fringes of North America. Evidence for the Norse colonization is corroborated by the remains of Norse buildings found at L'Anse aux Meadows near the northern tip of Newfoundland, Canada in 1960 - some 4,500 miles from Norway. In October 2021 the BBC reported that, using an atmospheric radiocarbon signal produced by a dated solar storm as a reference, scientists had revealed the ‘exact felling year of [a] tree’ cut for the Norse settlement at L'Anse aux Meadows to AD 1021.

While the Norse settlements in the North American island of Greenland lasted for almost 500 years the only confirmed Norse site in present-day Canada, L'Anse aux Meadows, was small and did not last as long. It is unclear why the short-term settlements did not become permanent, though it was likely in part because of hostile relations with the indigenous peoples [2], referred to as the ‘Skræling’ by the Norse. Nevertheless, it appears that sporadic foraging voyages and trade with the locals may have lasted for as long as 400 years.

Endnotes:

1. To call these people 'Vikings' is slightly misleading as the name does not really describe the distinct tribes, groups or communities of the Early Mediæval Period. It is also not a name that contemporary accounts or chroniclers used. You can find out more here.

2. In North America, the indigenous populations are known as Native Americans in the USA and the First Nation in Canada. Somehow the latter term seems preferable as it acknowledges who first inhabited the land and that those people had a developed notion of nationhood.