Showing posts with label Kitchenalia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kitchenalia. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 10, 2025

Kitchenalia: “Roman portable grills”

In “Kitchenalia” we introduce objects from different historical periods, discover a bit about their history and find out how each was made. We look at how, through Tastes Of History's practical experiments, we have learnt to best use them.

A while ago the author thought they heard someone, possibly in a documentary or something similar, state that ancient Roman spectators at sporting venues, such as the chariot races in the Circus Maximus, used portable grills to cook or heat snacks. The problem now, of course, is that the precise source of this claim cannot be recalled thus raising doubt, in our minds at least, that it was ever made. Regardless, Tastes Of History has several versions of portable cookers and grills from different historical periods such as the Roman craticula or testum, utensils we have previously covered and which one can discover more about by following the links. For the present purpose, however, the focus of this article is on internet search results for Roman portable grills that keep returning the example shown below.

This particular reproduction is sold by Armory Replicas in the USA, although other online vendors are available. The description accompanying the Armory Replicas product reads as follows:

“This ingenious portable grill is a replica of the type of gridiron grate popular among Roman soldiers and during the later Middle Ages. Much more efficient than digging in-ground fire pits, this type of portable grill made it easier to set up and break camp, a testament to the ingenuity that allowed the Romans to rule much of their known world. 100% hand riveted and crafted from high quality metal, the grill is contained within what appears to be a simple metal box; slotted cutouts and a removable interior tray combine to form a bottom platform to hold hot embers and small flames, this serves to essentially create a small, contained campfire. Inset approximately half an inch below the top of the box, the grilling platform is hinged to allow for easy access to the fire below while four raised corner flaps combine to create a secondary cooking platform approximately 1 inch above the top of the box. Sturdy legs at each corner serve to raise the box approximately 3 inches off the ground which helps to prevent scorching the ground while the hinged handle facilitates easy carriage of the surprisingly light (just 11 lbs) unit, making it extremely portable and a perfect camping tool.”

Looking at the product, and based on our experience, there is no doubt that this would make an ideal camping cooker, but so far Tastes Of History’s research can find no verifiable evidence that this portable grill ever existed in antiquity. To complicate matters, neither Armory Replicas nor any other vendor of this item provides a source for their “Roman cooking stove”. We are, therefore, left with a series of questions:

  • What is it a reproduction of precisely? Moreover, is it a “fire pit”, a “grill” or a “stove”?
  • Where is the original object from which this product is copied? Does it form part of a museum collection and if so, which museum?
  • Did the makers have access to the original to create an accurate and faithful reproduction?
  • If an example survives, from what historical context was it recovered? The “Roman” period and the “later Middle Ages” are significantly different times being separated by nearly a thousand years.

While iterating that this would make a fantastic camping cooker, without better evidence one can only conclude this is a modern product being marketed as a historical object for a re-enactment and living history audience. So, with little hope of answering the above questions, what evidence from the archaeological record do we have for portable cookers?

Within museum collections can be found numerous examples of surviving braziers, pot boilers or cookers. Nearly all are ceramic chimneys of differing heights as represented by the five examples pictured right. Note that each has a rectangular opening within which a fire can be lit. The smoke will vent upward through the chimney while the fire’s heat will warm any cookpot or vessel perched on top (as shown).

A very similar barrel-shaped version was discovered during excavations in Pompeii (left). Given the town was buried by volcanic pumice and the pyroclastic flow from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79, then this terracotta stove probably also dates to 1st-century AD. It is currently housed in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale’s collection in Naples, Italy. The barrel body is supported on three terracotta legs presumably to raise the firebox, indicated by the square opening, to prevent the ground or a floor being scorched. The body is pierced either to improve airflow to draw heat upward or to vent smoke. The three horizontal impressed bands may be purely decorative, but they might act to strengthen the body. Two semi-circular lugs are visible on the rim, but presumably a third one is or was present but out of sight in the photograph. It is possibly that these lugs were to support a cooking vessel (cf. the shaped rim on the second from the left of the five stoves pictured above).

An earlier form of ancient Greek terracotta portable cooker or oven is pictured left. Recovered from the prehistoric city of Akrotiri on the island of Thera (modern Santorini), it is dated to the Late Cycladic period (ca. 1600 – 1100 BC). The tripod legs may have allowed this object to be set above a fire such that the rectilinear opening could be where bread was baked. If this is correct, then it is tempting to hypothesize that the two pierced lugs may have been to facilitate sealing the aperture to retain the heat during baking. Alternatively, the opening might have been the firebox itself with cooking or heating occurring on the flat top surface.

The ceramic tray pictured right is somewhat different to the object already mentioned. That shown is a replica of a form of cookware found at excavation sites from the Mycenaean period (1700 to 1050 BC) so it is roughly contemporary with the Akrotiri example above. For a long time, however. archaeologists could not figure out how ancient Greeks used these trays. Were they meant to be placed over a fire to catch drippings, or were they more like a portable barbeque pits to hold coals. The debate was resolved about a decade ago when Julie Hruby, an assistant professor of classics at Dartmouth College, decided to investigate by attempting to cook Mycenaean style. Hruby, along with ceramicist Connie Podleski, re-created a tray and experimented. With it placed on top of hot coals, the skewered meat (Greek souvlaki) did not get hot enough. By putting the coals directly in the pan, however, the meat cooked perfectly.

One of the examples showcased might have been the portable grills alluded to above upon which Roman spectators cooked or heated food while watching chariot racing. We cannot say “yes” with any certainty, however, but the Roman were masters of copying Greek ideas. So, could the “souvlaki tray” or something similar have been an option. It remains possible although there are further questions on whether there would have been space available inside a circus or amphitheatre for people to cook. Likewise, in a packed venue, just how practical would cooking be? Smoke obscuring other people’s view of the games would probably not have been welcomed, and how might these enterprising cooks safely dispose of the hot coals? Although Tastes Of History is not aware of any specific ordinance mentioning it, the fire risk to these public venues would probably have seen such practices forbidden. Moreover, it seems fair to think that food vendors at public spectacles would have been unhappy with the competition. They might even have pressed local magistrates to have a ban imposed. Just a thought. Bon appétit!

Wednesday, November 26, 2025

A Brief History of Food: Inside the Roman Kitchen

Food and cooking

There is a universality to food, its preparation and cooking that unites us all. The same basic utensils found in modern kitchens were known to the Babylonians. Colanders, strainers, saucepans and skillets are among the many artefacts recovered from excavations in the Roman city of Pompeii. While in Britain, the archaeological record reveals the daily business of preparing and serving food was, and remains, one of the main social activities for these islands’ inhabitants.

A typical domestic kitchen would look very similar to the one pictured. Arrangements would have been made to supply water for cooking and cleaning, and stone or wooden tables for food preparation. The Romans typically cooked on a raised flat, stone topped hearth, a masonry construction about table height, upon which one or more charcoal or wood fires were lit. Many examples of these “cookers” can be seen in the archaeological sites of Ostia, Pompeii and Herculaneum in Italy. From practical experience, cooking pots can be heated next to the hot fire, placed in or be surrounded by its embers or coals, or set above the fire on iron trivets. By adjusting the vessel’s height above the fire or the pot’s proximity to the heat source, the cooking temperature can be easily regulated to boil, simmer or simply warm foods. Cooking vessels, whether ceramic or metal, were supported on grid-irons known in Latin as craticulae (sing. craticula) or suspended on chains from iron tripods.

Ovens

Ovens used for baking were generally beehive-shaped, constructed from a wicker frame encased in layers of clay which is initially sun-dried before being fire-hardened. The example shown right is from Augusta Raurica, a Roman archaeological site and open-air museum in Switzerland located on the south bank of the river Rhein about 20 km east of Basel near the villages of Augst and Kaiseraugst. It is the site of the oldest known Roman colony on the Rhein, Colonia Augusta Rauracorum. As with pizza ovens today, wood was burnt until sufficient heat had been generated whereupon the ashes were raked out and bread, meats or pastries placed inside. The aperture at the front was sealed to retain the heat during cooking.

As an aside, the modern practice of “roasting” meat in an oven is somewhat of a misnomer although it does fit with the definition of cooking by dry heat. Historically roasting meant using an open flame to surround the food (meat, fish, etc.) with hot air so it cooked evenly on all sides. While roasting on a spit undoubtedly served Roman soldiers well on campaign, the evidence for spit-roasts or rotisseries in domestic Roman kitchens is sadly lacking.

Alongside the more substantial ovens, there were also different types of ancient baking covers sometimes referred to as “portable ovens”. They are generally called either clibanus or testum, with both terms mentioned so frequently in Roman literary sources that there can be little doubt they were a fundamental element of the Roman kitchen at many levels of society. The former term, clibanus, is the more fashionable Latinised Greek word, while testum represents the Italian tradition for these ovens. From practical experiments undertaken with replicas, the testum is cleverly designed to apply heat above and around the food being cooked. Indeed, written clues for this technique are hinted at in the surviving collection of Roman recipes known as Apicius. In one recipe the fire’s embers are described as being “…above and below [the dish].” While the description does not explicitly explain how this may happen, one can imagine the dish must have been lidded for the fire to be on top of the food.

Utensils

Just as today, a variety of kitchen utensils are known from the archaeological record and therefore were available to the Roman cook. Frying pans (Latin: pl. fretālia; sing. fretāle) made of iron or bronze are well attested. Oval or round in shape, some examples feature an integrated pouring lip as shown below left. This reconstruction also has a folding handle that is locked in place by a collar that clamps the handle to an extension of the pan. Hinged forward as shown makes the fretāle compact for carrying or storage. Pictured below right is a reconstruction of an unusual pan with a long handle rivetted to a square pan with four domed recesses. The replica is based on examples found in Pompeii and a version housed in the British Museum. The latter, bequeathed to the Museum’s collection by Sir William Temple in 1856, has six circular depressions and is 431.80 mm (17 in) long. Dated to the 1st-century AD, it was found in Torre Annunziata, Campania, Italy and is described as a bronze baking pan for cakes and bread rolls.

Various forms of shallow pan made of bronze or brass were commonly used for cooking. In the Roman army they are synonymous with soldiers’ mess tin. Along with various earthenware dishes, these pans could also be used to serve food from cooker to table. Apicius refers to them as patellae or patinae (sing. patella or patina) - a replica pan is shown far right. The design is very similar to a ceremonial libation bowls, known as a patera, that frequently feature on Roman dedicatory altars. Not all of these libation bowls, however, have handles, but they often have a bulbous indentation (omphalos, “belly button”) in the centre underside. Next to the patina, and below three examples of colanders or sieves, is a wooden-framed grater. The brass sheet has been punch pierced to leave one side with raised metal burrs ideal for grating.

As pictured right, knives of all shapes and sizes were used. Typically made with iron blades, they were fitted with wood, bone or bronze handles. Hefty cleavers would be useful for jointing large pieces of meat, while more delicate work required the smaller cook’s knives shown in the centre of the image.

Within the group of objects are two spoons. Made of bronze, brass, wood or horn, along with ladles and dippers, spoons are essential in any kitchen. The uppermost recreates a common example from the Roman period. A modern replica, pictured below left, that features in the British Museum collection was inspired by a spoon found in Aquae Sulis (Bath). It is made of silver with pear-shaped offset bowl and twisted handle. Of note is the curved hook where the handle joins the bowl. It is not immediately obvious what function this performed. Possibly decorative, it can however be used to hook the spoon onto the rim of a pan when cooking which makes locating the spoon that much easier in a busy kitchen.


The other spoon-like replica copies an artefact housed in the collection of The Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge. Nicknamed the “Roman Swiss Army Knife”, this folding eating gadget, pictured above right, has a three-pronged fork, a spoon, a spatula, a pick, a spike, and an iron knife although the latter is badly eroded. Each element is hinged to fold out when needed, or fold away for ease of carriage. The pick or spike might have helped extract snails from their shells or, in the case of the spike, prising open oysters. The spatula is remarkably like those often found as part of hygiene sets where they are typically described for removing earwax. Given this multi-purpose knife’s potential use as an eating utensil, this seems unlikely in this instance but cannot be ruled out. Many less elaborate bronze folding knives have been discovered from antiquity, but this one's complex design and it being made from silver suggests it was possibly a luxury item. With silver being a relatively soft and pliable metal, it may not have been intended for regular use but rather something a wealthy traveller or soldier might show off.

One ubiquitous utensil common in Roman kitchens were mortaria (sing. mortarium) used for grinding, pounding, mixing or blending ingredients. Roman tastes in food favoured the use of sauces, relishes and subtly blended herbs and spices. With stone or wooden pestles, such ingredients often needed to be ground or puréed, and a strong mixing-bowl with a grit-roughened interior was, therefore, essential. Those shown below are replicas of mortaria copying the form and function of a plethora of examples recovered from across the Roman world.


Mortaria could be used to make cheese. Milk could be left in the bowl to curdle; the whey then being poured off through the spout on the rim. The grit on the inner surface would retain curd-forming bacteria from one cheese-making day to the next obviating the need to use rennet or old whey to set the milk working.

It is likely that no kitchen functioned without amphorae (sing. amphora), the two-handled ceramic jars used in enormous quantities across the Roman world to transport and store such things as wine, olive oil and fish sauce. The remains of many hundreds have been found in Britain. There are many styles known from the archaeological record but in general, tall amphorae contain wine or fish sauce, while globular ones were for olive oil. Amphorae often have tituli picti (painted inscriptions) or are stamped with a marker’s mark, what they contain, and import marks. As pictured right, the amphorae in the crates are for wine, while those in front, from left to right, are two for wine, one for fish sauce, one for olive oil, and one for preserved fruits respectively. The shapes are quite distinct which means one does not necessarily need to be literate to know the content of different amphorae.

The drawing (below left), from the Archaeology Data Service, is a summary table produced by Heinrich Dressel in the late 19th-century. It shows a group of amphorae recovered from the Castro Pretorio in Rome (Dressel, 1899). The main purpose of the table was to illustrate the vessels upon which stamps and tituli picti from the site were found. Dressel’s work represented in outline form some forty-five individual shapes which has gone on to provide a framework for much further study of amphorae [1].


Many of these vessels have a tapered design with a similarly tapered foot. As most observers point out, the design seems flawed as individual amphora cannot stand unsupported without toppling over. Yet, the design was immensely successful over several centuries. For transportation around and across the Mediterranean Sea, as evidenced from several ancient shipwrecks, rows of amphorae were stacked against ships’ hulls as shown in the reconstruction above right. Inserting the foot between four other amphorae permits additional rows to be safely and securely stacked on top. Plying a rope through the handles adds security to the cargo. When loading or unloading in port, the foot, particularly the ones on the larger amphorae, enable easier carriage on and off a transport ship, to marketplace and onward to a shop, eating or drinking establishment, or to a residence. The body of the amphora can be carried on the shoulder supported by an enveloping arm and a hand gripping the foot. Usefully, any sediment in the content is able to settle in a hollow foot, and the foot also acts to keep the body raised above any damp surface thus preventing moisture permeating through the porous clay. And finally, to empty larger amphorae becomes much easier if the foot is used to lift and help pour out the content.

Ingredients

When the province of Britannia was integrated into the Roman Empire the inhabitants of these isles were given access to a new world of ingredients, flavours and tastes. Some of the imported additions to British diets included dates, almonds, olives and olive oil, pine kernels (pine nuts), and the fermented fish sauce commonly used in ancient Mediterranean cooking. Evidence for these introductions comes from the physical remains of, for example, bones and seeds excavated on Roman or Romano-British sites. Adding to our knowledge is also evidence from two literary forms. Firstly, there are the letters preserved at Vindolanda written by the soldiers serving along Hadrian’s Wall to their families. Some record foods available such as one example that lists “spice, goats’ milk, salt, young pig, ham, corn, venison and flour”. Another letter mentions both ordinary and vintage wines, the local beer, the ubiquitous fish sauce [garum or liquamen], and pork fat. The other form of literary evidence survives in the “recipe book” of Apicius [2], the agricultural treatises of Marcus Porcius Cato (De agri cultura “On Farming” or “On Agriculture”), Marcus Terentius Varro (De re rustica “On Agriculture”), Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella (De re rustica) and the 4th-century writer Rutilius Taurus Aemilianus Palladius (Opus Agriculturae). Similarly, further testimony is provided by Gaius Plinius Secundus (Pliny the Elder) who wrote the encyclopaedic Naturalis Historia (“Natural History”), a comprehensive 37-volume work covering a vast array of topics on human knowledge and the natural world. Information on food and dining can also be gleaned from non-fiction works such as Gaius Petronius Arbiter’s Satyricon within which the feast of Trimalchio is notable. Finally, surviving mosaics and frescoes depict hunting scenes, flora and fauna, dining and foodstuffs.

The daily diet varied considerably between rich and poor. For the wealthy, there were few restrictions. Country villa owners in Roman Britain might enjoy freshly made bread perhaps using home-ground flour, home-grown fruits and vegetables, meat from pigs, sheep and oxen, and an abundance of fish and wild game. Pork was valued by Roman soldiers, with lard forming part of their daily ration. Auxiliaries manning Hadrian’s Wall also consumed large quantities of mutton given the number of sheep bones found at Corbridge, a Roman frontier town that supplied the Wall’s garrison. The poor, however, would have relied on a rather unvaried diet of coarse bread, cereal-based porridge or gruel, pulses, legumes and other vegetables, with meat only an occasional addition. That said, many new vegetables were introduced to British kitchens during the Roman period. These included some very familiar produce such as asparagus, cabbage, celery, cucumber, cultivated garlic supplementing the indigenous wild version, lettuce, leek, marrow, onion, parsnip, radish, shallots, and turnip.

Snails were a delicacy and were fed on milk, wine must and spelt wheat to enhance both their size and flavour. Initially kept on parcels of land surrounded by water to prevent their escape, their final fattening involved the snails being kept in jars with air holes. When they had become so fat they could not get back into their shells, they were fried in oil and served with wine. Snail shells have been found on many Romano-British villa sites suggesting snails were a popular food source. 

Honey was the main form of sweetening. It also served as a preservative for meat and fruit and was a common ingredient in many recipes and sauces. The Apician recipe Porcellum assum Tractomelinum (lit. “Suckling pig treated with honey”) differs very little from that found in cookery books today. Beekeeping (“apiculture”) was therefore an important industry with most farms retaining the service of an apiarius (“beekeeper”) to care for the hives.

Apicius also gives us a recipe for honey and cottage cheese (mel et caseum). As today, cheeses were many and varied and were widely enjoyed. Fresh curd cheese or caseum is attested in antiquity. However, having observed that soft cheeses tended to spoil rather quickly, the Romans introduced rennet, or coagulum as they called it, into their cheese making process. So, both soft and hard cheeses were known. To the eternal chagrin of modern Italians, Pliny the Elder wrote very enthusiastically about a cheese from Nemausus (Nîmes) in France as being the most popular in Rome. Around AD 40, he also describes a recipe clearly resembling a blue cheese like Roquefort. Moreover, the French Cantal and English Cheddar [3] are clearly the descendants of Roman cheese making practices.

Seafood

Shellfish were highly prized as food in Roman Britain. Oysters were especially important with those from the coast near Colchester, Essex and Richborough, Kent being particularly famous and even valued in Rome. Live oysters may well have been transported inland in tanks judging by the quantity of oyster shells frequently encountered in the archaeological record at inland Roman sites. The consumption of oysters was so great that more than a million shells were recovered in a single deposit in Silchester Roman town near Reading, Berkshire. Other shellfish valued as food included periwinkles, mussels, whelks, cockles and scallops. Like oysters, crabs and lobsters were also taken inland. Sea fish were also popular with cod, grey mullet, haddock, herring, ling and sea bream all being line caught as evidenced by barbed bronze fishing hooks recovered in Roman contexts.

Fish Sauce

The most characteristic ingredient in Roman cooking was the fermented fish sauce known either as liquamen or more popularly garum, although the two products are not synonymous. In truth liquamen is the standard term for fish sauce used in Roman texts, such as “Apicius”. The Romans, and the Greeks before them, used it to enhance dishes with an umami flavour [4]. While Garum appears to be the Roman transliteration from the Greek garos or garon, in Latin liquamen means “to be liquid; to liquefy” (Grocock and Grainger, 2006, Appendix 4). Both terms refer to fish and salt but the difference, according to Sally Grainger (Grainger, 2021), appears to be whether the mixture contained only blood and viscera (garum) or if it also contained whole small fish (liquamen). The former (garum) was used as a condiment at the table, while liquamen was used more widely as an ingredient in recipes. Usefully, Book XX of Geoponica, a 10th-century AD collection of agricultural lore, gives us the main recipe for liquamen: “fish blood and entrails as well as small fish such as sprat, smelt, mullet were all salted and shaken and fermented in the sun” (Grocock and Grainger, 2006, Appendix 4, 375). The liquid drawn from the fermenting process is comparable with today’s Thai nam pla or Vietnamese nuc nam fish sauces. In fact, the process of fermenting fish to make liquamen is akin to the processes of fermenting all kinds of other foods such as beer, sour dough, sauerkraut or kimchi.

Two other fish products often mentioned with garum are muria and allec. Muria is Latin for brine rather than a sauce and refers to the liquid drawn off fish packed in salt. The resulting muria salsamenti (“brine of salted fish”) was “quite pale in colour and also very clear and free flowing” (Grocock and Grainger, 2006, Appendix 4, 374). It was the inexpensive version of fish sauce widely available to poorer households. Allec, meanwhile, was what remained after all the liquids had been drawn off the fermented mass. This paste, which would contain anything the enzymes did not break down, was also used as a table condiment of varying quality (Pliny, Naturalis Historia, 31.44).

Spices

Any mention of spices being used to disguise the taste of foods that had become rancid through over-storage is a very outdated notion. Until more recent times and their widespread availability, spices were expensive luxuries unaffordable to the masses. This was particularly true during the Mediæval period where the use of spices ensured guests were aware of the expense the host had incurred in providing their meal. In other words, spices were a demonstrator of power and wealth. In 80 BC, however, when Ptolemy XI bequeathed Alexandria to the Romans, the revenues from taxes levied on the spice trade between Egypt and India in this major Mediterranean port were enormous. Under Roman rule Alexandria became the greatest commercial centre of the world. It was the leading emporium for the aromatic spices of India, all of which found their way to the markets of Greece and the Roman Empire. The trade with India was extensive for more than three hundred years. It allowed exotic spices, for example black pepper, to be far more commonplace than in later centuries. Other popular spices frequenting Roman recipes include cardamon, cinnamon, cumin, ginger, and saffron.

Herbs

A very common alternative to exotic spices were the various herbs that could be grown either commercially or by households in what we might recognise as “cottage gardens”. Herbs mentioned in Roman recipes, especially in sauces, include alexanders (“wild celery”), aniseed, bay-leaf, borage, chervil, coriander, dill, fennel, hyssop, lovage, mint, parsley, pennyroyal, rosemary, rue, sage, savoury, sweet marjoram and thyme to name but a few. To this list could be added silphium, a highly prized aromatic herb. Tapped from the root of this fennel-like plant and dried, in Roman haute cuisine silphium resin was used as a seasoning, as a condiment, or grated liberally over dishes. The stem was also considered a delicacy for those who could get it where the crunchy stalks were roasted, sautéed or boiled and eaten as a vegetable. Even its roots were eaten fresh, dipped in vinegar.

The wonder plant was an excellent preservative for lentils and when fed to sheep, it was said their flesh became delectably tender. Even in medicine, silphium was a veritable panacea. It could treat coughs, sore throats, fever, indigestion, aches and pains, warts, and all kinds of maladies. It was also thought to be both an aphrodisiac and, rather conveniently, a contraceptive. All of this from a weed that grew wild in a region of North Africa known as Cyrenaica.

Mismanagement and over-tapping led to silphium’s catastrophic decline in the 1st-century BC. Eventually the plant became extinct in the 1st-century AD. Indeed, in the 70s AD, Pliny (the Elder) writes that while silphium was “worth its weight in silver”, but that “for many years now it had not been seen in the region...The single stem found within living memory was sent to the Emperor Nero”. Although we cannot be entirely certain, presumably the bon viveur Nero consumed the last silphium, and that was that. The Romans were, however, familiar with an alternative aromatic resin from central Asia known as asafoetida. It had been brought to Mediterranean Europe from Iran by an expedition of Alexander the Great. Returning from a trip to north-eastern ancient Persia he thought that he had found a plant almost identical, albeit less tasty, to the famed silphium of Cyrenaica.

Asafoetida is a dried latex (gum oleoresin) obtained from the rhizome or tap root of several species of the Ferula plant, which belongs to the carrot family. It is primarily produced in regions like Iran, Afghanistan, and India. In its raw form the spice is known for its strong, pungent odour that some might find off-putting. When used as a condiment in cooking, and in pickling, it imparts a flavour reminiscent of leek or garlic. Today asafoetida plays a critical flavouring role in Indian cuisine by acting as a savoury flavour enhancer.

Wine

Probably the most important fruit introduced to Britannia was the grape. Britain lies at the northernmost limit for ripening grapes in Europe, so their cultivation was restricted to the southern half of England. Grape pips along with grape skins found in Gloucester are highly suggestive of winemaking in the area. It seems the Romans established vineyards as far north as Lincolnshire, capitalising on Britain’s milder climate during this period. Historical evidence suggests the wine produced was of varying quality, but its presence marked an early chapter in British winemaking.

Before the Roman occupation tribal chieftains, keen on luxury goods, imported wine from the continent. Post-invasion, wine was initially imported from Gaul (modern-day France) and the Mediterranean. Excavations from various sites in, for example, London, Bath, and Colchester reveal countless shards of amphorae filled with robust reds and fragrant whites from Spain and south-west France. Later the Romans systematically introduced organised winemaking, or “viticulture,” as well as popularising wine-drinking. Wine merchants’ shops have been identified in the Roman towns of Verulamium (St Albans), Eboracum (York) and Lindum (Lincoln) through the presence of large numbers of broken wine amphorae.

Wine intended for use in cooking was reduced by boiling before use to concentrate its sugars and help preserve it while in storage. Similarly, defrutum is a sweet, syrupy reduction of grape juice commonly used as a sweetener in ancient Roman cuisine. It adds a rich, fruity flavour to both sweet and savoury dishes.

Vinegar was another very important by-product of winemaking. Historically it was produced from wine that had gone sour or had been attacked by acetic acid-producing bacteria during fermentation with yeast, salt and honey. Vinegar sharpened sauces and dressings and was used in the preservation of fruits, vegetables and fish. Raw oysters were said to keep well if washed in vinegar. By adding a little vinegar to water the Romans created Posca, an everyday drink popular in the army and also amongst the urban poor. It has a refreshingly sour taste, but one that would have also disguised the smell and taste of stale water. The Roman’s development of posca was also convenient economically since the faulty storage of wine tends to result in vinegar.

Trade links to the continent meant grapes in the form of raisins, sultanas and currants, sun-dried in the Mediterranean sun, could be imported. Dates found in Colchester and olives recovered in London also must have been traded into Roman Britain. Besides grapes, other fruits were introduced by the Romans including the orchard crops of medlars, mulberry, damsons, plums and cultivated cherries. Native crab apples were joined by larger, sweeter cultivars grown in orchards alongside newly introduced pears. Various nut-bearing trees were brought from Europe including walnut and almond but not sweet chestnut. The latter is native to southern Europe, western Asia and North Africa but the story of how sweet chestnut trees came to be in Britain is unclear. It has long been thought of as a Roman introduction, but science does not definitively back this up. It may be that sweet chestnut trees are a far more recent introduction.

The colour-coded table below hopefully helps to visualise which foods were available or known to the Romans or not:


The foods highlighted in RED were not known to the Romans as most were native to either North or South America. So, for the Romans there were:

The foods highlighted in ORANGE were native to Asia:

  • Bananas in SE Asia (Indonesia, Vietnam, etc.) and Papua New Guinea.
  • Oranges in southern China, north-eastern India, and perhaps south-eastern Asia. They were first cultivated in China around 2,500 BC, with sweet oranges not arriving in Europe until the late 15th- or early 16th-century courtesy of Italian and Portuguese merchants.
  • Rice, noodles and pasta from China. Rice was introduced to Europe through western Asia, and much later to the Americas through European colonisation. As for pasta, that quintessential Italian food, in the 1st-century BC the Roman poet Horace wrote of fried sheets of dough called lagana. Unfortunately, the method of cooking these sheets does not match the current definition of either a fresh or dry pasta product. Perhaps lagana only had similar basic ingredients and perhaps the shape. In the 2nd-century AD, the Greek physician Galen mentioned itrion, referring to all homogenous mixtures from flour and water. The Latinised itrium was used as a reference to a kind of boiled dough.

The food highlighted in GREEN, namely ice cream, has an unusual history. Ancient civilisations had used ice to chill foods for thousands of years. So, a kind of ice-cream was supposedly “invented” in China about 200 BC when a milk and rice mixture became frozen after it had been packed in snow to keep it chilled. Much later the Roman Emperor Nero (AD 37-68) is supposed to have sent slaves to nearby mountain tops to bring back fresh snow that was then flavoured with fruit toppings and served as an early form of “slushy”. The truth of either tale is uncertain at best, but it is not beyond possibility that our ancestors discovered “ice cream” or “invented” the slushy by accident. 

In Summary

The cooking methods, utensils and gadgets used in Roman kitchens 2,000 years ago ought to be familiar to us today. Technological innovation may have enabled us to harness gas, electricity and microwaves but fundamentally we still boil, bake, roast and fry. Even the many foods we eat today in Britain, and perhaps are guilty of taking for granted, were introduced from much further afield during the Roman period. Some ingredients the Romans would never have known but the recipes that do survive remain a source of delicious meals. Bon appétit!

References:

Grainger, S., (2021), “The Story of Garum: Fermented fish sauce and salted fish in the ancient world”, London: Routledge.

Grocock, C. & Grainger, S., (2006), “Apicius: A critical edition with an introduction and English translation”, Totnes: Prospect Books.

Endnotes:

1. University of Southampton (2014) Roman Amphorae: a digital resource [data-set]. York: Archaeology Data Service [distributor] https://doi.org/10.5284/1028192.

2. The work conventionally known by the name “Apicius” is officially titled De re coquinaria (“The Art of Cooking”). Likely not compiled until the 4th-century, the book comprises more than 400 recipes collected and collated into its final form. It not thought that “Apicius” was the name of a single author, but rather serves as a convenient name by which we can refer to this surviving collection of practical Roman-era recipes. Follow the link for more on “Who is Apicius?

3. The semi-hard Cantal cheese originates from the Cantal region in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes area of France. It is alleged, but without any corroborating evidence, that Cantal has its origins in Gaul and thus contemporary with the Romans. By contrast Cheddar cheese was first attested in the early 12th-century, likely being created in the village of Cheddar in Somerset, England. In 1107, King Henry II reputedly bought some 10,000 pounds of cheddar.

4. Umami is recognized as the fifth basic taste, alongside salty, sweet, bitter, and sour. It is often described as a pleasant, savoury taste that is associated with the presence of amino acids like L-glutamate and nucleotides such as guanosine monophosphate (GMP) and inosine monophosphate (IMP). Foods rich in umami include cheese, cooked meats, mushrooms, soy sauce, and ripe tomatoes. The term “umami” translates from Japanese to mean “pleasant savoury taste”, and it enhances the overall flavour profile of dishes.

Monday, July 25, 2022

Kitchenalia: Fish Eaters

In the 1880s, while the ‘Old Money’, the aristocracy, ate their fish course using two table forks, the ‘New Money’, the nouveau riche, adopted distinctive knives and forks for the same purpose. These cutlery forms became increasingly popular, yet their distinctive shape serves no real purpose other than to distinguish ‘fish eaters’, or ‘fish-eating knives and forks’ as they were also called, from other pieces of table cutlery. Today, such cutlery has mostly fallen out of favour, which explains why so much of it can be found for sale in antiques and collectibles shops, online, and so on.

Victorian dining etiquette

The complicated dining etiquette of the Victorian era encouraged the development of utensils for eating particular foods. The proper use of cutlery formed an important and often lengthy section in the etiquette manuals published at the time to guide the unwary. As the century progressed, the rules for the use of some cutlery changed, reflecting the refinements that began to differentiate the manners and status of 'old' and 'new' money. The development of fish eaters is a good example of this. Until the 1880s etiquette manuals recommended that fish be eaten using two ordinary table forks or one fork and a piece of bread. But in the last quarter of the 19th century, middle-class families bought the newly developed utensils, such as fish eaters, to differentiate themselves from those who already owned more traditional cutlery sets. In 1838 a book of etiquette for ladies [1] recorded that, 'in first rate society, silver knives are now beginning to be used for fish: a very pleasing, as well as decided step in the progress of refinement.' People no longer used steel knives and forks, as the steel was said to react with acids in the fish sauces and taint the flavour of the food. By this time, fish knives and forks were commonly called 'fish eaters' or 'fish-eating knives and forks' (V&A Collections, online). Even so, in some circles the innovative cutlery designs were never accepted and have remained a subject for prejudice and exclusion to this day.


History of fish-eaters

For manufacturers of cutlery (cutlers), this was a highly successful time. Early to mid-19th century Britain was a period of thriving industry and wealth. This enabled the middle classes the money and time to use dining as a way to impress and display their wealth. Coupled with the idea of separate courses arriving in the 1850s, led to the demand for an assortment of utensils that would distinguish the serving and eating of various food types. At the peak of the antique silver fish service’s use, there were more than 200 distinct eating utensils used at the dining table. Cutlers were producing hundreds of design styles incorporating additional materials to the handles to make them more aesthetically appealing. In the case of fish servers, knife blades were frequently embellished with piscatorial-related engraved decoration (Tubbrit, 2016).

In the Victorian era, fish servers and cutlery sets made fabulous gifts. It was common for brides to request fish services as gifts to add to their silver flatware collection as a dining table could be set with twenty-two or more different pieces at each place setting. Undoubtedly the social and cultural changes brought about post two world wars led to a shift in dining habits. While it seems the practice of gifting fish services continued well into the 20th century, the sheer number of sets frequently encountered for sale reflects a trend away from such cutlery and their current lack of popularity.

What is a fish-eating knife and fork?

This small table knife is specifically designed to facilitate the eating of fish. The knife blade has a curved sharp edge, perfect for sliding between the skin and flesh of the fish. The broad blade is a useful feature as it assists in lifting the fish to the fork, whilst keeping flakes in one piece. The blade terminates in a relatively sharp point which is useful to lift small bones away from the flesh. The wide surface may also be used to scrape up, or spread any sauce served with the fish (Tubbrit, 2016).

As with the fish knife, the fish fork is used with fish dishes. The standard fish fork is smaller than a table fork at approximately 18½ cm to ca. 20 cm (7 ¼ to 7 ¾ inches) long. Fish forks (and knives) often have an incurve shaped form (pictured); this feature was likely simply to differentiate it from all the other forks that could be present on the table, as there were frequently many (Tubbrit, 2016).

Placement on the Dining Table

As with any other cutlery in a traditional dinner setting, the fish-eating knives and forks are placed in order of use. If fish is being served as an appetiser, the fish knife is laid to the right of the dinner knife and fish fork to the left of the dinner fork. In other words, they would be the first items of cutlery to be used working from the outside inwards (Tubbrit, 2016).

If fish is being served as a main course, fish cutlery should be placed nearest to the plate (fish knife to the right of the dinner plate and fish fork laid to the left of the plate). When it comes to the fish fork, it may be placed with either the fork tines upward in the American style, or downward for the continental style, as pictured below (Tubbrit, 2016).


References:

Tubbrit, G., (2016), ‘History of Fish Knives and Forks’, Available on-line: https://www.acsilver.co.uk/acsnews/2016/03/24/fish-knives-fish-forks-etiquette/ (accessed March 4th, 2022)

V&A Collections, ‘Fish Knife’, Available online: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O48546/fish-knife-goldsmiths-and-silversmiths/ (accessed March 4th, 2022).

Endnotes:

1. A.F., (1838), ‘The Ladies’ Pocket Book of Etiquette’, Golden Cockerel Press (1928).


Wednesday, June 01, 2022

Kitchenalia: Roman Soldier's Cookware

In an earlier article, we challenged the idea that Roman soldiers cooked farinata, a type of unleavened bread made from chickpea flour, on their shields (link here). Given that Roman shields (Latin scutae; sing. scuta) were typically made of wood this is highly unlikely and at best a myth. So, if not using their shields, then what utensils might the average Roman soldier carry to cook with?

Roman army mess tin


Trajan's column in Rome depicts soldiers carrying objects similar to the one pictured (right). They are thought to be ‘mess tins’ (a much more modern military term) or saucepans used both for cooking and for eating from. Today they are frequently referred to as patera [1], but this is possible a misnomer.

In his account of The Jewish War, Flavius Josephus [2] records that, in addition to three days rations, each Roman soldier carried ‘a saw, a basket, a pick and an axe, as well as a strap, a bill-hook and a chain’ (Goldsworthy, 2003, 135). The ‘bill-hook’ may well have been a sickle for reaping crops. Regardless, Josephus’ statement is supported by a scene on Trajan's Column, pictured right, that depicts legionaries carrying their kit over their shoulders on a pole (Latin: furca). This consisted in part of a string-bag for forage, a metal cooking-pot (situla) and a ‘mess-tin’.

Examples of the latter have been discovered in most parts of the Empire (Davies, 2011). Now housed in museums, most paterae are made of cast bronze, often tin-lined, and sometimes with their handles and/or bowls highly decorated. The maker frequently stamped their name on it, as did the object's owner. The analogy with modern military mess tins seems obvious, but these pans were used in far wider contexts, such as in kitchens and in religious observances for making libations.

Libation
  In the material culture of classical antiquity, to the ancient Greeks a phiale is a shallow ceramic or metal libation bowl. In Latin the same object is named patera (pl. paterae) The most numerous were small plates of the common red earthenware onto which an ornamental pattern was drawn. Numerous specimens may be seen in the British Museum, and in other collections of ancient ceramic vases. The more valuable paterae were metallic, being chiefly of bronze, although wealthier families may have had one of silver. Libation bowls often have a bulbous indentation (omphalos, ‘bellybutton’) centrally underneath to facilitate holding them, and typically have no handles or feet. Although the two terms may be used interchangeably, particularly in the context of Etruscan culture, phiale is more common in reference to Greek forms, and patera in Roman settings (which should not be confused with the Greek (Πατέρας) patéras meaning ‘father’ and the Latin equivalent pater). In Roman art, the libation is shown performed at an altar, mensa (sacrificial meal table), or at a tripod. It was the simplest form of sacrifice, and could be a sufficient offering by itself.

Cooking pot


Also mentioned in Josephus’ description is a situla (pl. situlae). From the Latin word for bucket or pail, the term is used in both archaeology and art history to describe a variety of elaborate bucket-shaped vessels dating from the Iron Age to the Middle Ages. Usually fitted with a handle, all types of situlae may be highly decorated, most characteristically with reliefs in bands or friezes running round the vessel. A more utilitarian, undecorated, tin-lined version (pictured right) was more likely carried by Roman soldiers as a cooking pot.
 

Folding Frying Pan


While Josephus specifically mentions soldiers carrying paterae and situlae, archaeological evidence also suggest they used other items of cookware. Pictured right is our splendid replica of a late Roman frying pan or skillet made by Len Morgan. Earlier dated pans tend to have a fixed handle much like the patera already discussed, which gave rise to them being named as such. The original iron version with a folding handle, upon which the replicas is based, was found near the fort Gelduba (Krefeld-Gellep, Germany) and dates from the 3rd-century AD. A similarly dated folding handle pan, made for a soldier of the Roman army in Wales, is housed in the National Roman Legion Museum, Caerleon. The folding handle makes perfect sense in a military context as it minimises the space needed to carry it.

The replica’s handle is attached by a single barrel hinge and pin to an integral tang, as shown in the bottom image (above right). The pan has a spout to drain off fat, just like the originals. It is made of 1 mm thick steel and measures approximately 235 mm wide, 630 mm long with the handle extended or 360 mm folded. The pan’s depth is approximately 25 mm and it weighs 1.25 kg.
 
References:

Davies, R. W., (2011), ‘The Roman Military Diet’, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Goldsworthy, A., (2003), ‘The Complete Roman Army, London: Thames and Hudson.

Endnotes:

1. To confuse matters, pa′tera was also the name given to round dishes, small plates or saucers which, according to Pliny (Natural History, XXX.8 s21), were sometimes used in cooking, an operation more commonly performed in pots [olla] and basins or bowls. They could also be used at meals to eat upon or to serve food. The use of paterae at meals no doubt gave origin to the employment of them in sacrifices. On these occasions they held either solid food or any liquid intended to be poured out as a libation. We find paterae frequently represented in conjunction with the other instruments of sacrifice upon coins, gems, altars, bas-reliefs, and the friezes of temples.

2. Flavius Josephus (c. AD 37 – c. AD 100) was a first-century Romano-Jewish historian. He initially fought against the Romans in the First Jewish-Roman War (AD 66-70) but surrendered to the forces led by the future emperor Vespasian in AD 67. Subsequently, having defected to the Roman side, Josephus set about recording Jewish history with special emphasis on The Jewish War which, written c. AD 75, recounts the Jewish revolt against Roman occupation and includes his account of the siege of Masada.