Tuesday, August 23, 2022

Bosworth Field: a King's Recipes

This year (2022) Tastes Of History was delighted to return to the Bosworth Medieval Festival at the brilliant Bosworth Battlefield Heritage Centre. For those unfamiliar with the history, the Battle of Bosworth Field (or Battle of Bosworth) was the last significant battle of the Wars of the Roses. Otherwise known as the 'Cousins' War' this was the civil war between the Houses of Lancaster and York that extended across England in the latter half of the 15th-century. The Battle of Bosworth Field was fought on August 22nd, 1485 and resulted in the death of King Richard III, the last Plantagenet king of England. Won by the Lancastrian forces of Henry Tudor (Henry VII, father of the future King Henry VIII) the battle marks a pivotal transition in British history from the Late Mediæval Period to the Early Modern Period.

Our brief was to produce period recipes for visitors to sample at the Festival, which given such a specific date was a challenge to say the least. Nevertheless we set about recreating dishes that we hoped would not have been out of place on such a historic day. The following dishes, therefore, are mostly derived from 'The Forme of Cury', a collection of recipes believed to have been written down around 1390 by the chefs of King Richard II. In fact 'The Forme of cury' was so named by Samuel Pegge who first published an edition of the collected manuscripts in 1780 for the then curator of the British Museum, Gustavus Brander.

Braised Spring Greens


It is probably fair to say that spring greens are closer to Mediæval spinach than the modern vegetable. Fortunately this recipe can be made using either. As to the oil used for frying, this was most likely rape oil imported from Flanders, although King Richard II's cooks certainly would have been able to buy in expensive nut oil or olive oil.

Spynoches yfryed. Take Spynoches; perboile hem in sethying water. Take hem up and presse out the water and hew hem in two. Frye hem in oile & do therto powdour douce, & serve forth.
Cury on Inglysch, IV. 88

Cabbage Chowder


This recipe will serve as a main course soup with the addition of small strips of fried bacon and sippets, small piece of bread or toast used to dip into soup or a sauce or as a garnish.


Caboches in potage. Take caboches and quarter hem, and seeth hem in gode broth with oynions ymynced and the whyte of lekes yslyt and ycorue smale. And do therto safron & salt, and force it with powdour douce.
Cury on Inglysch, IV. 6

Pomme dorryse (Meatballs)


'Pomme dorryse' means 'golden apples', although by using parsley ('persel') as given below results in green rather than a golden apples. Of course, the first line also refers to 'othere thyngs' in the 'farsur', the 'farce' or forcemeat mixture so the colour could be made golden.

Farsur to make pomme dorryse or othere thynges. Take the lire of pork rawe, and grynde it smale. Medle it up with eyren & powdre fort, safroun and salt; and do therto raisouns of coraunce. Make balles therof, and wete it wele in white of ayren, & do it to seeth in boilyng water. Take hem up and put hem on a spyt. Roast hem wel, and take persel ygrounde and wryng it up with ayren & a perty of floure, and lat erne aboute the spyt. And if thou wilt, take for persel, safroun; and serve it forth.
The Forme of Cury, 182


Henys in Bruet (Chicken in Cumin Sauce)


This is an English version of a dish popular in western Europe. In France it is called a 'Cominée' indicating the characteristic cumin seasoning.

Henys in bruet schullyn be schaldyd & sodyn wyth porke; & grynd pepyr & comyn, bred & ale, & temper it wyth the selve broth & boyle it, & colowre it wyth safroun & salt it, & mes it forthe.
Diversa Servicia, 7

Champignons en pasté (Mushroom Pasties)


Pies, pasties and tarts were popular dishes served at mealtimes and feasts. Mediæval 'pasties' were essentially turnovers where the filling is place on top of thinly rolled pastry which is then doubled over and crimped round the edge to seal it. This version uses open pastry cases instead.

Gyngerbrede


Earlier recipes for ginger bread used stale bread rather than discarding and it being wasted. Long pepper can be found in specialist outlets, but best of luck finding the food colouring saundres. Both cinnamon and ordinary pepper are perfectly acceptable alternatives as they are mentioned in another Mediæval recipe. Before serving you can, yf it plece you ('if it pleases you') sprinkle with sugar before slicing and serving.

Take goode honye & clarefie it on the fere, & take fayre paynemayn or wastel brede & grate it, & cast it into the boylenge hony & stere it well togyder faste with a sklyse that it bren not to the vessell. & thanne tale it doun and put therin ginger, long pepere & saundres, & tempere it up with the handes; & than put hem to flatt boyste & strawe theron sugar, & pick therin clowes rounde boute by the egge and the mydes, yf it plece you.
God Kokery, 19

Lemon Posset


Known by this name since the Mediæval period, posset is a milk drink curdled by the action of an acid such as wine, ale or citrus fruit juice. Although posset's origins are obscure, it is a very ancient concept with links to the curdling processes used in the earliest forms of cheese making. In its consistency there are Mediæval and Tudor references to posset being drunk in much the way we would consume a milkshake today, However, if the whey was separated from the curds as it was being made, the result was known as a 'posset curd' which was eaten rather than drunk. Either way the lemon posset recipe below produces a rich, creamy and very sweet dessert treat.


If you wish to recreate a Mediæval feast, you might like our earlier posts where additional recipes may be found: 'A Mediæval Banquet', 'Bosworth Mediæval Festival: The Recipes', 'Celebrating St George's Day', and 'Bosworth: Food Fit for a King'.

Bon Appetit!

Monday, August 22, 2022

Dispelling Some Myths: Lady Godiva’s naked ride

Did you know the city of Coventry has an official Lady Godiva? To be honest we didn’t until recently when we discovered that Pru Porretta MBE (pictured) is said person and has been for 40 years.

Background  Coventry’s Lady Godiva Procession goes back as far as 1678, but the tradition gradually faded out and ended in 1962. After a twenty year gap, however, it was decided to revive the tradition for the Coventry Carnival of 1982. Interviews were held with young women for a volunteer to not only ride through Coventry but also be the official Lady Godiva for the year, spreading the story of the self-sacrifice she had made for Coventry’s citizens, and promote the city itself. Pru Porretta was duly chosen and rode in her first official Lady Godiva Procession on June 12th, 1982 that started from the War Memorial Park and circled for 6 miles around the city before returning to the park. Little did Pru know that she would still be in demand as Lady Godiva 40 years later.

But what of Lady Godiva herself? She is most remembered for the folklore story of her naked ride through Coventry that she allegedly made to free the city’s people from harsh taxes. Pru has re-imagined the role of Godiva as a strong female leader seeking social justice, but who was the real Lady Godiva, and did she actually ride naked through the streets?

The real Godiva  Lady Godiva was a legitimate key figure in the history of Coventry. She was born in AD 990 although it is not known when she died [1]. The real Godiva, or ‘Godgifu’ as some sources name her, was an 11th century noblewoman married to Leofric, the powerful Earl of Mercia and Lord of Coventry. Although subject to the Danish King Knut (‘Canute’) rule, Earls like Leofric effectively controlled Anglo-Saxon England. As the Earl’s wife Godiva was a rich landowner in her own right, and one of her most valuable properties was Coventry, but she was also known for being generous to the church.

The history  Despite the historical legitimacy, which is to say that Coventry and Godiva both existed at the time, there is much doubt on her ride through Coventry due to a lack of contemporary records. The story first appeared approximately one hundred years after her death, and the monk, Roger of Wendover, who wrote of it in the 12th century was known for stretching the truth in his writings. 

The 900-year-old story was first recorded, in Latin, by two monks at St. Albans Abbey, Hertfordshire. As the Abbey stood at an important road junction, it has been assumed the monks heard the story from travellers making their way to the London. That the story has transcended not just space, from the Midlands to London, but time, being part of folklore for over 900 years, just what makes it so enduring?

The Story  In essence it is a titillating tale. Sometime in the 11th century a proud, pious noblewoman rode through Coventry on market day completely naked, covered by nothing but her long hair. The first question is why?

According to the legend, her husband Leofric was a tyrant. He intimidated the Church and held neither the same religious convictions as his wife nor her fondness for the Midlands and its people. He demanded that the townsfolk of Coventry pay Heregeld (‘army tax’), a crippling tax imposed to pay for King Knut’s bodyguard. Troubled by the crippling taxes Leofric had levied and aiming to help the citizens of Coventry, Godiva repeatedly pleaded for him to lessen the burden. Leofric supposedly quipped, ‘You will have to ride naked through Coventry before I change my ways’, confident that his demure, modest wife would never do such a thing.

But Lady Godiva took him at his word. On the morning of a market day in Coventry Godiva ordered the people to stay in their homes to preserve her modesty. As the story goes, she stripped naked and rode through the streets veiled only by her long golden hair, which was long enough to cover all her body such that only her face and legs were visible. One man, a tailor, disobeyed Godiva’s instructions and could not resist opening his window to look upon Godiva riding past. Upon doing so, this ‘Peeping Tom’ was struck blind.

Her naked ride completed, Godiva confronted her husband and demanded that he honour his end of the bargain. True to his word, Leofric freed the people’s from paying heregeld, and reputedly ceased his persecution of the Church. Leofric appears to have undergone a religious conversion after this incident and he and Godiva funded a Benedictine monastery in Coventry where they were both buried. Sadly all traces of this monastery have long since disappeared.

Legend becomes myth  As with most tales of this sort they alter with the telling over the centuries. The character of ‘Peeping Tom’ for example appears to have been added in the 16th century since when it has become a common term for a voyeur. By the 17th century a revised version of the story said that before her ‘ride’, Godiva sent messengers throughout the town insisting that all the people stay indoors with their windows shuttered on the day. As she was very popular with the people (unlike her husband) and every taxpayer realised that they stood to gain from her ‘heroic act’, they did as she requested.

The annual Coventry Fair kept the Godiva story alive until the English Reformation of the 16th century when the festival was banned and not revived until 1678. From then on ‘Godiva’ rode through the Coventry streets on a snow-white horse accompanied by a man whose chief skill it seems lay in his ability to make rude, suggestive gestures. Lady Godiva’s story was mythologised in popular songs, and in verse by poets like Alfred, Lord Tennyson, who wrote his ‘Godiva’ in 1840. Also in the Victorian period such subjects were a staple of artists following the pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood. A perfect example is Lady Godiva an 1897 painting by English artist John Maler Collier that portrays her well-known but apocryphal ride through Coventry. It may be viewed in Coventry's Herbert Art Gallery and Museum. As mentioned at the start, the Lady Godiva Procession was revived in 1982 and now takes place annually in June.

The story endures today largely because of the nudity, yet most historians consider this to be a crass and titillating myth. Lady Godiva was indeed a real person from the 11th century AD. She was known for her generosity to the church, and along with Leofric, she helped found a Benedictine monastery in Coventry. Contemporary accounts of her life note that ‘Godgifu’ was one of only a few female landowners in England in the 1000s. What the records make no mention of is a clothes-free horse ride on a market day in Coventry. 

Moreover, there is modern misconception about what constitutes ‘naked’ in the past. The ancient Greek authors, for example, often used the word γυμνός (gumnos) when describing contemporary warriors. Modern translations often take this to mean these men went into battle ‘naked’ or ‘nude’ but, as can be seen in the InfoBox right, gumnos can have the intended meaning of ‘unarmed, without armour, or defenceless’. So, which do we believe is the more likely in the Greek example, and was Lady Godiva naked as depicted in Collier painting?

The short answer is probably not. It is possible that the nudity myth originated in Puritan propaganda designed to blacken the reputation of the notably pious Lady Godiva. Chroniclers of the 11th and 12th centuries mention Godiva as a respectable religious woman of some beauty but make no allusion to nude excursions in public. 

A more plausible rationale for the legend is based on the custom at the time for penitents to make a public procession in their shift, a sleeveless white garment similar to a slip today and one which was certainly considered ‘underwear’ in Godiva's time. If this were the case, Godiva might have actually travelled through town as a penitent in her shift, likely unshod and stripped of the jewellery that was a trademark of her high status. Similarly, for a noblewoman of Godiva’s standing being in public without her head covered or with long flowing, loose hair would have been considered a sign of impropriety - loose hair, loose woman. It is most likely that, if she did indeed ride through Coventry, her unadorned state in public would have been considered highly unusual and give rise to descriptions of her going naked. If correct, then it becomes easier to see how such an event would be so memorable and bring about the legend which would later be romanticised in folk history.

References:

Andrews, E., (2014), ‘Who was Lady Godiva?’, History.com, Available online (accessed July 21st, 2022).

Coventry Society News, (2022), ‘Coventry’s official Lady Godiva Celebrates her Ruby Anniversary‘, Available online (accessed August 6th, 2022).

Johnson, B., ‘Lady Godiva’, Historic UK, Available online (accessed July 21st, 2022).

Simcox, G., (2018), ‘The Truth Behind The Legend of Lady Godiva’, The Culture Trip, Available online (accessed July 21st, 2022).

Endnotes:

1. Her death is assumed to be between 1066 and 1086 but that leaves a rather large twenty year window of uncertainty.


Saturday, August 20, 2022

The Forme of Cury

The Forme of Cury (‘The Method of Cooking’ [1]) is an extensive 14th-century collection of medieval English recipes. Although the original manuscript is lost [2], the text appears in nine other incomplete documents from different eras, the most famous of which is in the form of a scroll with a headnote citing it as the work of ‘the chief Master Cooks of King Richard II’. The name ‘The Forme of Cury’ is generally used for the family of recipes rather than any single manuscript text. The collection was so named by Samuel Pegge, who published an edition of one of the manuscripts in 1780 for the curator of the British Museum, Gustavus Brander (Dickson Wright, 2011, 46, 50-52). As a collection, it forms one of the oldest extant, and probably the best-known medieval guide, to cooking written in English. Its origin may have been partly to compete with ‘Le Viandier of Taillevent’, another incomplete manuscript in French created around the same time. The idea that the Forme of Cury was intended to be better and even more royal than Le Viandier of Taillevent suggests banquets were considered symbols of power and prestige for kings and great medieval lords (Hieatt & Butler, 1985).

Contents of the book

As with most books, the Forme of Cury begins with an introduction. In this preamble, the authors explain it is a compilation of recipes meant to teach a cook how to make both common dishes as well as unusual or extravagant banquet dishes. It notes the recipes were written with the agreement and advice of the ‘masters in medicine and philosophy’ who served England’s King Richard II [3].

As with many cookbooks on medieval cuisine, there is no clear and consistent layout. It seems the authors recorded recipes as they encountered them. So, soups and roasted meats or meats in sauces are mixed with recipes for vegetables (peas, beans, lettuce, leeks, etc.) and recipes for eggs. Some of the sweetened dishes, analogous to desserts today, are found mixed with salted recipes such as ‘pynnonade’, ‘rosee’ (rose petals), ‘payn ragoun’, ‘appulmoy’, ‘sowpes dorry’, ‘fygey’, and ‘tostee’. Next are included some fish and soup recipes followed by those for 10 sauces and then recipes for fritters, pies, tarts, (‘sambocade’, a tart made from elderberries, is classified with salted tarts). The manuscript concludes with two blancmange recipes, two sweetened tarts recipes and some recipes for ‘ypocras’, claret, and a unique beer made with honey. This approach can be confusing for modern readers more familiar with defined chapters and themed sections.

The Forme of Cury is the first known English cookbook to mention ingredients such as cloves, olive oil, mace, and gourds. Many recipes contain what were at the time rare and valuable spices, including nutmeg, caraway, ginger, pepper, ‘canell’ (cinnamon), and cardamom. In addition to imparting flavour, many of the spices were included specifically to impart rich colours to the finished dishes for the purpose of, as Samual Pegge states, ’gratifying the sight.’ There is a particular emphasis on yellows, reds, and greens, but gilding and silvering was also used in several of the recipes (Pegge). Yellow was achieved through the use of saffron or egg yolk, red through ’sanders‘ (sandalwood), alkanet, or blood, and green often through minced parsley (Woolgar, 2018). The Forme of Cury also includes instructions for preparing many different types of animals not normally encountered, for very good reasons, in modern texts. These include whale, crane, curlew, heron, seal and porpoise (Woolgar, 2018).

Influences

Alongside the more exotic ingredients, the recipes clearly reveal influences from beyond England’s shores. Interestingly, Mediæval English cuisine seems to identify more with that of southern Europe than with their close cousins, the French. There are about ten vegetable recipes, including a rare one for a vinaigrette salad, that it is thought must originate in Portugal and Spain as the French cooks of that time rarely used vegetables. The relationship to southern cuisine is equally evident because of the presence of almonds and almond oil in 19% of the recipes, (compared to 12% from the recipes of Le Viandier). This percentage rose to 45% in the cookbooks of the 15th-century. Remembering that the Forme of Cury seems determined to outdo Le Viandier, the former includes the use of large quantities of saffron as in southern cuisine, 40% compared to 29% in Le Viandier.

Some recipes in The Forme of Cury appear to be influenced by the Liber de Coquina, itself influenced by Arabic cuisine. For example, the recipe for ‘mawmenee’ corresponds to the Arabic ‘mamouniye’, a roasted semolina cream dessert [4]. The confectionery-like ‘payn ragoun’ uses an Arab technique of cooking in a soft boil syrup. It also confirms a connection with Sicily, whose cuisine had been heavily influenced by Arab, Catalan and Norman rulers (Pegge). There are also several pasta dishes, evidence of an Italian influence, such as ‘losyns’, ‘rauioles’ (raviole), ‘makerouns’ (maccaroons), ‘raphioles’, and sweetened mustard ‘lombardes’ as found in Italian and Catalan recipes. 

The recipes recorded in the Forme of Cury were clearly intended to impress as one might expect of a king’s cookbook. Drawing on influences from far and wide, the dishes represent English regal power and prestige, and appear aimed at surpassing the culinary collections of rival kings. Whether this was its sole purpose, the Forme of Cury provides good evidence that English gastronomy in the 14th-century was clearly the equal of French cuisine.

References:

Bouchut, Marie Josèphe Moncorgé; Bailey, Ian (trans.); Hunt, Leah (trans.), ‘Oldcook: Forme of Cury and cookery books in English’, Available online (accessed June 15th, 2020).

Dickson Wright, C., (2011), ‘A History of English Food’, London: Random House.

Hieatt, C. B. & Butler, S., (1985), ‘Curye on Inglysch’, Early English Text Society, London: Oxford University Press.

Pegge, Samuel (1704-1796), ‘The forme of cury, a roll of Ancient English cookery: compiled, about AD 1390, by the master-cooks of King Richard II’, Cambridge University Press.

Woolgar, C.M., (2018), ‘Medieval food and colour’, Journal of Medieval History, 44 (1): 10.

Endnotes:

1. ‘Cury’ comes from the Middle French word cuire meaning ‘to cook’.

2. According to Constance B. Hieatt, the Forme of Cury can be categorised as four different manuscripts (Hieatt and Butler, 1985):

a. Manuscript A, from the British Library, is the text printed in 1780 by Pegge and contains 196 recipes. Hieatt questions the utility of this text as a comprehensive reference because its editors were unaware of the existence of other manuscripts. That said the majority of the recipes presented in the ‘Curye on Inglysch’ can be found in Manuscript A.

b. Manuscript B, from the Pierpont Morgan Library of New York, is very damaged and in the form of a scroll. It includes 180 recipes.

c. Manuscript H, also from the British Library, comprises 133 recipes compiled by Harley in 1605.

d. Manuscript M, from the John Rylands University of Manchester, is missing the first few pages but contains 194 recipes.

3. Richard II succeeded to the throne at the tender age of nine, and thus, in 1390, he was only 23 years old and thus still a very young king. Historians describe the two years of Richard’s reign between 1397 and 1399 as his ‘tyranny’. In June 1399, Henry Bolingbroke, the son of the recently deceased John of Gaunt, invaded England with a small force that quickly grew in numbers. Meeting little resistance, he deposed Richard and had himself crowned king. Richard is thought to have been starved to death in captivity, although questions remain regarding his final fate.

4. Mamouniye, also called mamounia, mamounieh or mamouniyeh, is served for breakfast in places like Syria, and is also served at weddings and special occasions.


Monday, August 15, 2022

Food History: The Inimitable Mrs Beeton

Isabella Mary Beeton (née Mayson) was born on March 14th, 1836. Better known simply as Mrs Beeton, she was an English journalist, editor and writer who is most associated with her first book, the 1861 work Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management. After schooling in Islington, north London, and Heidelberg, Germany, she married Samuel Orchart Beeton, an ambitious publisher and magazine editor.

In 1857, less than a year after the wedding, Beeton began writing for one of her husband's publications, The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine. She translated French fiction and wrote the cookery column, though all the recipes were plagiarised from other works or sent in by the magazine's readers. In 1859 the Beetons launched a series of 48-page monthly supplements to The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine; the 24 instalments were published in one volume as Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management in October 1861, which sold 60,000 copies in the first year. Beeton was working on an abridged version of her book, which was to be titled The Dictionary of Every-Day Cookery, when she died of puerperal fever on February 6th, 1865 at the age of 28.

The Book of Household Management has been edited, revised and enlarged several times since Beeton's death. While still available in print, the subsequent editions were far removed from, and inferior to, the original version.

Her name has become associated with knowledge and authority on Victorian cooking and home management, and the Oxford English Dictionary states that by 1891 the term Mrs Beeton was being used as a generic name for a domestic authority. She is also considered a strong influence in the building or shaping of a middle-class identity of the Victorian era. One presumes that Mrs Beeton’s popularity and celebrity was undoubtedly aided by being married to a publisher, yet the popular belief that she was responsible for the modern cookery book is wrong. In fact the format we are familiar with today - listed ingredients, quantities, timings and method - was first popularized by Eliza Acton, who Beeton freely plagiarised. Indeed several cookery writers have criticised Beeton's work for her use of other people's recipes but this is somewhat disingenuous as it ignores the trend at the time to wholesale plagiarise or copy large portions of another’s work.


Monday, August 08, 2022

Rome's 'Secret Agents'

There is a tendency to attribute modern structures, ranks and roles to descriptions of the ancient Roman army (Latin: exercitus). Such endeavours are precarious because, despite the seemingly obvious parallels, there is no certain equivalence. That said, just as today statecraft requires intelligence to determine the potential threats to a nation or, in this case, the Roman Empire. It should be no surprise, given Rome’s highly organised military and civil bureaucracy, that the army provided the means to gather the necessary information.


In more modern times, the military intelligence departments of the UK’s War Office (now the Ministry of Defence (MoD)) became the Security Service (MI5), the Secret Intelligence Service (SIS/MI6) and the Government Communications Headquarters (GCHQ). Unsurprisingly the functions of these latter day secret organisations can be found rooted in the Roman Empire where internal and external security was as paramount then as it is now. Rome’s intelligence units were created, evolved, and disbanded over the centuries such that, in their long history, they have been known by many names. What follows is an attempt to unravel the ‘who’s who’ and discover what roles, tasks, and functions Rome’s ‘secret agents’ performed.

Firstly, the Romans did not have a formal intelligence service(s) as we understand it today. The reluctance to develop such organisations stemmed from the unique way its republican government had developed. The Roman Senate, which was composed of men from wealthy, upper-class families, acted with a certain amount of class loyalty that allowed the state to push its interests and expand overseas. But the Senate was not of one mind. There was always tremendous personal competition among individuals and families for the wealth and glory that such conquest created. To further their parochial ends, these men needed to know what others were doing and planning, and so they used their private intelligence networks to advance their own careers (Howard, 2006).

The Romans had no qualms about using espionage on a personal level. Every Roman aristocrat had his private network of business associates, informers, clansmen, slaves, or agents (male or female) who could keep him informed on the latest happenings in the Senate, the activities of rival families, or the goings-on in his own home.

Informatores  On the Ides of March (March 15th) in 44 BC, during a meeting of the Senate at the temporary Curia in the Theatre of Pompey in Rome, the Roman dictator, Gaius Julius Caesar, was murdered by a group of senators opposed to his dictatorship. When Caesar’s adopted heir Octavianus was elevated to imperial power he was cognizant with the threat of assassination. Known by the title ‘Augustus’, the new emperor was fully aware that the most likely conspirators would be from the upper echelons of Roman society, from the equestrian or senatorial classes. With this in mind, undercover informers, informatores, who were generally chosen from the Praetorian Guard either at the rank of centurion or tribune, were tasked with arresting anyone plotting against the Emperor. To uncover such plots necessitated informatores to operate at the higher levels of Rome’s bureaucracy often requiring them to develop contacts or co-operate with state-level procurators.

Provocatores  Much like the informatores already mentioned, provocatores were also tasked with identifying disloyalty toward the Emperor. They operated undercover within Roman territory aiming to gain the trust of those they were investigating. Having done so it is believed provocatores would provoke the intended target, by example, to speak ill of the Emperor. Should the target follow the provocator's lead, then said individual would have effectively entrapped themselves and be arrested.

Exploratores  As their names implies (exploratio means ‘to explore, to investigate, to examine’), exploratores were the scouts of the Roman army. In the early years of the Principate soldiers selected from the auxiliary cavalry were detached from their units for a length of time for this purpose. We know little, however, about how the exploratores were organised but if they were drawn largely from the cavalry, then the smallest operational unit probably would be a turma consisting of thirty horsemen commanded by a decurion. Although relatively small, these mounted patrols had the flexibility to range far and wide reconnoitring ahead and to the flanks of the legion’s main body to detect the enemy. It is worth remembering that while each turma could protect itself, exploratores were not intended to engage with an enemy force but rather to gather information and report back on its location, strength, activity and direction of movement.

As part of their mission, exploratores also reconnoitred the terrain to identify landmarks or locate obstacles that might hinder or slow a legion’s advance. The latter might include forests or woodland, mountainous ridges and valleys, rivers or wetlands. In doing so, their task would most probably also involve identifying possible crossing points. One final task each day would be to locate a favourable site for the construction of the legion’s marching camp.

It seems exploratores were very much the tactical reconnaissance units of the Roman army. The information they gathered would have informed the legion’s commanders of the immediate intelligence picture while on campaign. At the operational or strategic level, however, information was also needed to protect the empire’s interests, identify unrest in its far-flung provinces, and any external threats posed to its borders. Enter the frumentarii.

Frumentarii  On the face of it, frumentarii were ‘grain collectors’ - frumentum, after all, means ‘grain’. Working for the military commissariat they were tasked with ensuring the Army was reliably supplied with this staple of the Mediterranean diet.

There are two main sources of information about the frumentarii, inscriptions on gravestones and anecdotes where the actions of individual frumentarii are mentioned by historians. From inscriptions, albeit except for few named centurions (centurio frumentarius), it seems clear that the frumentarii were mostly attached to individual legions. This strongly supports the idea that their main function was, as their name suggests, to service those legions with grain supplies. These duties would have necessarily involved a lot of travelling and brought the frumentarii into contact with enough locals and natives to acquire considerable information about any given territory. Knowledge of the geography, landmarks, communication routes, and strategic objectives such as settlements, farms or granaries would have been valuable military intelligence.

With the frumentarii ranging far and wide, it seems probable that, in the 2nd-century AD, Emperor Trajan added the role of couriers charged with the conveyance of military dispatches to their tasks. By the time Emperor Hadrian succeeded to the throne, the need for an empire-wide intelligence service had become clear. Yet establishing and funding a new service tasked with secretly spying on the Empire’s citizens was not as straightforward as it might seem. Envisioning the large scale of the operation, Hadrian followed his predecessor’s example and turned to his ‘private agents’ - presumably the frumentarii - to be a ready-made information gathering service and couriers of official messages.

In The Life of Commodus it is reported that the emperor’s Praetorian prefects had a particular individual, who was felt to exert a negative influence over the emperor, ‘assassinated by means of their private agents’ (Historia Augusta, The Life of Commodus, 4.5). Once again the use of the term ‘private agents’ may allude to the clandestine activities of the frumentarii.

It seems that the duties of the frumentarii evolved over time, developing from their initial connection with the grain supply and the necessity to travel between Rome and its provinces. Although each frumentarius appears to have belonged to a particular legion, they seem to have liaised with a central bureaucracy in the Castra Peregrina (‘camp of the foreigners’). Their freedom of movement no doubt led to their employment throughout the second century as couriers and messengers. The clandestine nature of the frumentarii‘s tasks may have been exploited so that, on occasion, they may have acted as imperial assassins. but more often than not they represented the forces of law and order.

Speculatores  In both the legions and in the praetorian camp, speculatores were initially scouts tasked with gathering as much information as possible about the enemy. It should be fairly evident, therefore, that what was collected by speculatores and the more numerous exploratores (see above) often overlapped.

Over time, however, it seems speculatores became imperial bodyguards, couriers, law-enforcers, and sometimes executioners. Where such tasks required the wearing of ‘plain clothes’ may explain why they were considered ‘spies’ (Occulta speculator / speculatrix). Units were organised in the standard legion manner led by a centurion and his ‘chosen man’ or Optio, and commanded by the Centurio Speculatorum Augustorum when accompanying the emperor on military campaigns.

On the suicide of Emperor Nero, the first permanent imperial bodyguards, the Corporis Custodes (also known as Germanic or Batavian bodyguards), were replaced by the new Emperor Galba’s own bodyguard, the speculatores. They remained the imperial bodyguard until the Emperor Trajan promoted his own Equites Singulares to the role.

Despite being the emperor’s private, standalone unit, complete with its own barracks, the speculatores were frequently counted part of the Praetorian Guard. Indeed, it seems the Guard, especially its cavalry element, was a prime recruiting ground for speculatores.

Ammianus Marcellinus, a Roman historian, reports that in AD 365 the usurper Procopius sent speculatores to Constantinople to spread hostile rumours about Emperor Valentinian I. If true, then the whispering campaign was somewhat successful as Procopius was elected emperor on September 28th, AD 365, reigning a whole eight months until May 27th, AD 366.

Arcani  Vindolanda Tablet 162, pictured, is a fragment of a leaf containing two words, ‘miles arcanvs’ written in a good capital hand. The Roman Inscriptions in Britain (RIB) website suggests it is possibly some sort of ‘tag’, merely recording the name of a Roman soldier since ‘Arcanus’ is a known cognomen [1]. Alternatively, it might be a reference to some type of intelligence officer or agent (see exploratores above). In the latter context, the only reference to arcanus is by Ammianus Marcellinus (Book 28.3.8):

‘...haec etiam praecipua arcanos [2] genus hominum a veteribus institutum, super quibus aliqua in actibus Constantis rettulimus, paulatim prolapsos in vitia a stationibus suis removit: aperte convictos, acceptarum promissarumque magnitudine praedarum allectos, quae apud nos agebantur, aliquotiens barbaris prodidisse. id enim illis erat officium, ut ultro citroque [per longa spatia] discurrentes, vicinarum gentium strepitus nostris ducibus intimarent...

‘During these outstanding events the arcani, who had gradually become corrupt, were removed by him [Theodosius] from their positions. This was an organisation founded in early times, of which I have already said something in the history of Constans. It was clearly proved against them that they had been bribed with quantities of plunder, or promises of it, to reveal to the enemy from time to time what was happening on our side. Their official duty was to range backwards and forwards over long distances with information for our generals about disturbances among neighbouring nations.’

Ammianus’ description implies the arcani were a longstanding institution and appear to have been a force based in Britannia during the later period of Roman occupation of the island. They had played some part in the campaign of Constans in Britain in AD 343 and later helped to instigate the Great Conspiracy in AD 367 - 368 [3]. Due to their participation in the Conspiracy, Count Theodosius disbanded them (Marcellinus, Book 28.3.8) [4].

The duties that Ammianus describes, traveling and reporting the news of the tribes to Roman leaders, are appropriate to military scouts (Richmond, 1958, 115). It is conceivable that the arcani may have lived and operated in the paramilitary zone between the Antonine Wall running across Caledonia (Scotland) and the Vallum to its South. It is tempting to speculate that the Vindolanda tablet might be an ‘identity card’ carried by someone moving about the countryside, conducting reconnaissance in ‘plain clothes’, which could be produced if challenged by other Roman military personnel? It is not beyond the realms of possibility, but we cannot know for certain.

Agentes in rebus  The agentes in rebus were the late Roman imperial courier service and general agents of the central government from the 4th- to the 7th-centuries AD. The exact date of their institution is unknown. They are first mentioned in AD 319, but may date to Diocletian's reforms in the late 3rd-century when they replaced the earlier and much detested frumentarii (see above) The central imperial administration still needed couriers, however, and the agentes in rebus seemingly filled this role.

Their title translates as ‘Those Active in Matters’, an ambiguous description that may hint at the multiplicity of tasks they may have been called upon to perform. Originally operating as dispatch carriers, they eventually assumed a variety of duties under the jurisdiction of the magister officiorum (Master of the Offices). The organisation survived into the Byzantine Empire, being eventually abolished sometime in the early 8th-century AD, as most of the magister's functions were taken over by the logothetēs tou dromou (Kazhdan, 1991, pp. 36-37).

The agentes in rebus were formed into a militarised schola (‘imperial guard unit’) of the palace in common with other public services of the Dominate. As a militia, the five ranks of agentes were derived from those of junior cavalry officers of the late Roman army: equites, circitores, biarchi, centenarii and ducenarii (Kelly, 2004, 20, 40). Two were appointed to each province in AD 357, one in AD 395 and more again after AD 412. According to Codex Justinianeus (the Code of Justinian, XII.20.4) the agentes enjoyed immunity from prosecution in both the civil and criminal courts, unless otherwise sanctioned by the Master of Offices. Senior agentes were regularly appointed to the post of princeps officii (the ‘chief of staff’ or ‘permanent secretary’) of the praetorian prefectures, the urban prefectures in Rome, and the dioeceses [5] across the Empire thereby exercising control over these departments' bureaucracy and reducing its independence (Kelly, 2004, 96, 210).

As for their function, the 6th-century historian Procopius notes:

‘The earlier Emperors, in order to gain the most speedy information concerning the movements of the enemy in each territory, seditions or unforeseen accidents in individual towns, and the actions of the governors and other officials in all parts of the Empire, and also in order that those who conveyed the yearly tribute might do so without danger or delay, had established a rapid service of public couriers.’ (Procopius, Secret History, XXX)

This is essential the role ascribed to the aforementioned frumentarii, but as couriers their duties included the supervision of the roads and inns of the cursus publicus (public postal system), the carrying of letters, or verifying that a traveller was carrying the correct warrant (evectio) while using the cursus. Further duties assigned to the agentes included the role of customs officers, the supervision of public works and the billeting of soldiers (Kazhdan, 1991, pp. 36-37). They were also used to supervise the arrest of senior officials as required, to escort senior Romans into exile, and even to assist in the enforcement of government regulation of the church (Sinnegan, 1959, 248). Ammianus Marcellinus and Procopius also noted their use as ambassadors on several occasions (Sinnegan, 1959, 249).

Other tasks included supervising the provincial bureaucracy and delivering Imperial commands, often staying in the area to ensure their implementation. Being outside the control of the provincial governors, some agentes, the curiosi, were appointed as inspectors (Kazhdan, 1991, pp. 36-37), for which they gained a reputation for being some form of secret police (Jones & Tomlin, 2015). Yet the vast majority of agentes operated quite openly and thus claims of them actually being a ‘secret police force’ are certainly exaggerated (Kelly, 2004, 207).

Their routine assignments brought agentes into contact with matters of great concern to the imperial court. Given that they reported back to the court on everything they saw or heard on their varied missions, the agentes must have performed an intelligence function in the broadest modern sense of the term (Kazhdan, 1991, pp. 36-37). This role, as well as their extraordinary power, made them feared.

Beneficiarii  Most modern armies have hierarchical rank structures, with officers and soldiers typically identified by their rank. Ordinary soldiers, for example, can be ‘privates’ but they also can be ‘Riflemen’, Guardsmen’, ‘Troopers’, ‘Gunners’ and so on. To confuse matters sometimes they can be identified by their specialisation such as ‘Craftsmen’ in the Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers (REME), ‘Signaller’ in the Royal Signals, or ‘Drummer’, ‘Trumpeter’, ‘Bugler’, ‘Piper’ and ‘Musician’ in various military bands and other units. Given that the Roman army has tended to be the model for modern armies it is tempting to equate ranks and positions across the centuries. Attempts to align the ranks of the Roman army with its modern descendants is fraught with problems. There are some parallels at the higher levels of command. For example, based purely on the number of soldiers under his command in a legion, namely about 5,000, the Legatus legionem is described by some authors as a ‘Brigadier General’ who today typically commands a brigade of roughly equivalent strength [6][7]. As one descends the rank structure, however, the roles and responsibilities increasingly diverge or simply do not correlate.

With that in mind, beneficiarii (sing. beneficiarius) are often assumed to be ‘officers’ in the Roman army below the rank of centurion but this is not really the case. While the title had existed at least from the time of Caesar, by the imperial period a beneficiarius ranked among the principales (who received pay at one‐and‐a‐half times or twice normal legionary rates) and performed administrative duties. A man was appointed beneficiarius through the favour (beneficium) of their commander usually after serving as an immunis [8], and then holding one or more posts in the century, such as officer in charge of the watch (tesserarius), standard‐bearer (signifer), or orderly. Moreover, the rank of each beneficiarius depended on the status of the official to whose office he was attached. These included procurators, senior military officers (both praefecti of auxiliary cohorts and legati legionis had them), the praetorian prefects, or those most commonly found with the title beneficiarii consularis who worked for provincial governors. Regardless of who’s staff they were attached, beneficiarii performed administrative and legal tasks on behalf of their commander; in effect they acted as his aide-de-camp [9]. Beneficiarii could often expect promotion to the centurionate.

Pictured right is a replica of a distinctive class of iron spearhead with broad shouldered blades excavated in Wiesbaden, Germany. It was made by Len Morgan and is shown carried by Juris Trede, both retired members of the Roman Military Research Society (RMRS). Surviving examples of these spears ‘exhibit features such as coper-alloy inlays, silvering, circular or slot perforations, and attached rings’ (Bishop & Coulston, 2006, 152). The one shown is decorated with acorns, one at the finial and two attached as pendants [10]. Such spearheads are found carved on monuments erected by and for beneficiarii, frumentarii, and speculatores. It follows, therefore, that such ‘soldiers presumably carried spears as rank insignia while engaged in specialist administrative, supply and policing duties’ (Bishop & Coulston, 2006, 153) [11].

References:

Ammianus Marcellinus Liber XXVIII III VIII.

Bishop, M.C. & Coulston, J.C.N., (2006), ‘Roman Military Equipment from the Punic Wars to the Fall of Rome’, Oxford: Oxbow Books.

Historia Augusta, ‘The Life of Hadrian’, Loeb Classical Library (1921), Available online: https://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/Historia_Augusta/Hadrian/1*.html (accessed March 30th, 2022).

Historia Augusta, ‘The Life of Commodus, Loeb Classical Library (1921), Available online: https://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/Historia_Augusta/Commodus*.html (accessed March 30th, 2022).

Howard, E., (2006), ‘Espionage in Ancient Rome’, historynet.com, Available online (accessed June 5th, 2022).

Jones, A.H.M. & Tomlin, R.S.O., (2015), ‘agentes in rebus’, Oxford Research Encyclopedia of Classics.

Kazhdan, A., ed. (1991), ‘Agentes in rebus’, The Oxford Dictionary of Byzantium, Oxford and New York: Oxford University Press.

Kelly, C., (2004), ‘Ruling the later Roman Empire’, Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.

Richmond, I. A., (1958), ‘Roman and Native in North Britain’, Chapter V ‘Roman and Native in the Fourth Century’, Nelson, p. 115.

Sinnegen, W.J., (1959), ‘Two Branches of the Roman Secret Service’, The American Journal of Philology, 80 (3), pp. 238–254.

Stevens, C. E., (1955), ‘Hadrian and Hadrian's Wall’, Latomus, Vol. 14, No. 3, pp. 384-403, referenced in Richmond, op cit.

Endnotes:

1. Under Roman naming conventions a cognomen was a citizen’s third name. Initially, it was a nickname, but lost that purpose when it became hereditary. Subsequently cognomina were used to augment the person’s second name, their gens, to identify a particular branch within a family or family within a clan.

2. The manuscript reading is areanos, which may be a misspelling in antiquity where the ‘c’ was mistaken for an ‘e’. According to Stevens, the term ‘areani’ means ‘people of the sheep-folds’ (Stevens, 1955, 395), and many of the homesteads in the frontier region were indeed sheep-folds (Richmond, 1958, 115).

3. The Great Conspiracy was a year-long state of war and disorder that occurred in Roman Britain near the end of the Roman rule of the island.

4. Flavius Theodosius (died AD 376), also known as Count Theodosius (Latin: Theodosius comes) or Theodosius the Elder (Latin: Theodosius Major), was comes rei militaris per Britanniarum (Commander of the Troops of the Diocese of the Britons) a senior military officer serving Emperor Valentinian I (r. AD 364 - 375) and the western Roman empire. Under his command the Roman army defeated numerous threats and incursions, including the Great Conspiracy (AD 367 - 368) and the usurpation of Valentinus. Theodosius was patriarch of the imperial Theodosian dynasty (r. AD 379 - 457) and father of the emperor Theodosius the Great (r. AD 379 - 395).

5. The praetorian prefectures were the largest administrative division of the late Roman Empire, above the mid-level dioceses and the low-level provinces. In the Late Roman Empire, regional governance grouped provinces into civil dioceses each headed by a vicarius, the representative of praetorian prefects, who directly governed the diocese in which they resided. There were initially twelve dioceses, rising to fourteen by the end of the 4th-century AD. The urban prefecture had a long history dating back to the time of the kings of Rome. The office of the praefectus urbi was tasked with maintaining order within Rome itself, but its powers also extended to the ports of Ostia and the Portus Romanus, as well as a zone of one hundred Roman miles (c. 140 km) around the city.

6. The rank of Brigadier General first appeared in the British army during the reign of King James II (1685 to 1688). Almost interchangeably since its inception, the British simply called the holder a ‘Brigadier’. A warrant of 1705 placed the grade directly below Major General. Some readers may be confused that the next rank up is a ‘Major General’ followed by a ‘Lieutenant General’, after all a ‘Major’ is two ranks above a ‘Lieutenant’. The explanation is, however, quite simple. Just as the British dropped the ‘general’ in ‘Brigadier General’, by the 18th-century they had also quietly dropped the ‘Sergeant’ in ‘Sergeant Major General’, which had been the most junior of the general ranks.

7. The typical NATO standard brigade consists of approximately 3,200 to 5,500 troops.

8. Immunes were legionary soldiers who possessed specialised skills which excused them from routine labour and guard duties. Engineers, artillerymen, musicians, clerks, quartermasters, drill and weapons instructors, carpenters, hunters, and medical staff were all considered immunes. Regardless, these men were still fully trained legionaries and were called upon to serve in the battle lines when needed.

9. An aide-de-camp is a personal assistant or secretary to a person of high rank, usually a senior military, police or government officer, or to a member of a royal family or a head of state. While still trained soldiers, Beneficiarii were immunes closely associated with a high ranking officer and thus unlikely to be called upon to fight unless in extremis.

10. The acorn appears to have been a symbol associated with fertility and the creation of life. In the iconography of rulers, however, it was a reference to their special relationship with powerful gods, who protected them and allowed them to rule using their divine justice. As the representative of emperors, acorns on the beneficarius’ spear are thus symbolic of imperial power.

11. Several online sources quote beneficarii performing the role of ‘military police’. To imply the Roman army had military police officers or units as we would understand the terms today has not been substantiated by contemporary written or graphic evidence. Bishop and Coulston do mention a ‘policing’ role but it far from certain that beneficiarii were actively maintaining law and order or enforcing regulations or agreements in the sense of a modern police force’s role. So, while beneficiarii were in the military and perhaps policed rules and regulations administratively on behalf of a high ranking officer, it is probably wrong to think of them as ’military police’.

Friday, August 05, 2022

A Brief History of Foods: Oranges

Origins  The name 'orange' derives from the Sanskrit word for 'orange tree' (नारङ्ग nāraṅga). The Sanskrit word reached European languages through Persian نارنگ (nārang) and its Arabic derivative نارنج (nāranj). 'Orange' entered Late Middle English in the 14th century via the Old French word orenge (as in the phrase pomme d'orenge), which is itself based on the Arabic nāranj. The colour was named after the fruit [1] and, according to the Oxford English Dictionary, the first recorded use of orange as a colour name in English was in 1512.

There are two types of orange: the bitter orange most notably used to make marmalade (or in other recipes needing a sharper flavour), and the sweet orange. While the orange is unknown in the wild state, it is assumed that the bitter orange originated in southern China, north-eastern India, and perhaps south-eastern Asia (formerly Indochina) possibly from a cross between pure mandarin [2] and pomelo parents. In contrast, the sweet orange is not a wild fruit [3], but a domesticated cross between a non-pure mandarin orange and a hybrid pomelo. All varieties of the sweet orange descend from this original cross and have a distinct origin from the bitter orange.

Arrival in Europe  In AD 711 the Islamic Arabs and Moors of Berber descent crossed the Strait of Gibraltar from northern Africa into the Iberian Peninsula.  In a series of raids they conquered Visigothic Christian lands, and after an eight-year campaign brought most of Iberia under Islamic rule. The arrival of the Moors invigorated in Europe a renewed interest in scientific knowledge and learning, advanced new ideas in mathematics (algebra, geometry, trigonometry and calculus), introduced a novel writing system, paper to actually write on, and the bitter orange.

Complex irrigation techniques specifically adapted to support orange orchards is evidence of large-scale cultivation from the 10th century AD onwards [4]. Citrus fruits - among them the bitter orange - were introduced to Sicily in the 9th century with the Muslim conquest of Sicily, but the sweet orange was unknown until the late 15th century. It was carried to the Mediterranean area possibly by Italian traders after AD 1450 or by Portuguese navigators around AD 1500. Until that point, citrus fruits were valued by Europeans mainly for medicinal purposes, but the sweet orange was quickly adopted as a luscious fruit. Considered a luxury item, the wealthy grew oranges in private conservatories, called orangeries. By 1646, the sweet orange was well known throughout Europe [5].

Orange Cake  One hundred years later and Margaretta Acworth recorded a delicious recipe for Orange Cake in her personal recipe book. The book itself may have been begun by her mother, Anne Ball, but Margaretta continually added to it, exchanging recipes with friends and relatives. Some of those that survive date from the 1720s or earlier suggesting they may well have been handed down to Anne Ball from her own mother. Regardless, this remarkable book records 70 years of practical cookery performed by affluent Georgian women.

Mrs Acworth cookery book includes a wide range of cakes which perhaps reflects the relatively new Georgian fashion for taking afternoon tea. Today such cakes typically have self-raising flour as the raising agent. But in 1745 when Margaretta married Abraham Acworth it would be another century before self-raising flour was invented [6]. Thus, during the 18th century, cooks made increasing use of eggs as raising agents in preference to the yeast of earlier times [7]. The result is a firmer but moist cake bursting with sweet orange flavour.

Bon appétit!

Endnotes:

1.  Paterson, I., (2003), A Dictionary of Colour: A Lexicon of the Language of Colour, London: Thorogood, p. 280.

2. The mandarin orange (Citrus reticulata), also known simply as the mandarin (or mandarine), is a small citrus tree fruit treated as a distinct species of orange.

3. Hodgson, R.W., (1967-1989), 'Chapter 4: Horticultural Varieties of Citrus'.

4. Trillo San José, C., (2003), 'Water and landscape in Granada', Universidad de Granada.

5. Morton, J., (1987), 'Orange, Citrus sinensis. In: Fruits of Warm Climates', New Crop Resource Online Program, Center for New Crops & Plant Products, Purdue University, pp. 134–1421.

6. Self-raising flour was invented by Bristol baker Henry Jones.  He was granted a patent for self-raising flour in 1845, and by the end of 1846 its runaway success led to him being appointed purveyor of patent flour and biscuits by Royal Appointment to Queen Victoria.

7. Prochaska, A & Prochaska, F. (eds.), (1987), 'Margaretta Acworth’s Georgian Cookery Book', London: Pavilion Books, p. 91.